Images are AI-generated illustrations of the intended design, not photographs of a physically tested sample. Follow the written stitch counts and construction instructions rather than counting stitches in an image.
This original crochet pumpkin pie slice cushion answers the crochet pumpkin pie pillow pattern search with a complete construction rather than a decorative idea alone. The written instructions use US crochet terms and explicitly name shaping, assembly and fit checks. Gauge and measurements are planning targets; make a washed swatch before committing to a size.
Two matching triangles and a straight-sided gusset form a small pumpkin-pie wedge. The orange top is deliberately plain; the tan lower face and raised ribbed crust make the food silhouette recognizable without beads, appliques or removable toppings.
Pattern Details
- Hook Size: 4 mm or size giving firm stuffing-resistant single crochet
- Finished Size: Approximately 8.4 inches across the back, 7 inches from crust to tip and 2.4 inches high, plus a one-inch crust
- Gauge: Target 20 sc and 24 rows = 4 inches; dimensions are untested planning estimates
- Estimated Time: 8-11 hours
- Construction: Two shaped triangular faces, 120-stitch joined gusset and doubled ribbed rear crust
- Skill level: Intermediate
Why You’ll Love This Project
The project has a practical use and a recognizable silhouette. Each component has its own checkpoint so you can compare the count and size before joining. The stitch choices and finishing are intended to give the object a distinctive handmade texture without relying on another pattern or image.
Materials
- Approximately 240 yards pumpkin-orange worsted yarn and 170 yards golden-tan worsted yarn of matching thickness
- 4 mm hook, locking markers, blunt needle, scissors and tape measure
- Approximately 120-180 g washable polyester stuffing, added gradually rather than packed hard

Gauge, Measurements, and Planning
Swatch firm sc through both loops. Stuffing must not show between stitches when the swatch is gently stretched. At five sc per inch, forty stitches span eight inches; forty rows at six rows per inch span about 6.7 inches. A border adds a little width and depth. The exact triangle slope depends on row gauge. Measure the finished bordered triangle edges before sewing; a gusset edge must lie around them without pulling or ruffling. Remake the gusset with a different hook if necessary rather than forcing unequal lengths together.
Make and wash a gauge swatch before beginning. Measure only after the swatch is completely dry. If the stitch width differs, change hook size rather than pulling the working yarn tighter. Keep a written count at the end of every section so the finished edges remain balanced and the assembly points line up.
Abbreviations and Special Stitches
- ch: chain
- sc: single crochet
- hdc: half double crochet
- dc: double crochet
- sl st: slip stitch
- st(s): stitch(es)
- rnd: round
- BLO: back loop only
- inc: two stitches in one stitch
- sc2tog: single-crochet two stitches together
- hdc2tog: half-double-crochet two stitches together
Special stitch guidance: Inc means 2 sc in the same stitch. Sc BLO uses the back loop only and creates the crust ribs. All face and crust rows turn after ch 1, which never counts. The gusset uses joined sc rounds: ch 1, work the first sc in the same stitch as the join, and join with a slip stitch to that first sc. Neither the ch 1 nor slip stitch counts.
Important Notes
- Development note: the written stitch arithmetic has been checked computationally, but this design has not been physically sample-tested. Gauge, yardage, fit and dimensions are planning targets. Make a swatch and a trial fit or assembly before gifting.
- Turning chains and joining slip stitches are not counted unless a step explicitly says otherwise. Mark the first counted stitch of each round or the first and last stitches of a flat row.
- Use the washed gauge to check dimensions at each named checkpoint. If the count is right but the measurement is wrong, change hook or yarn and reswatch rather than adding unplanned stitches.
- Keep all yarn tails on the wrong side and weave them through three different stitch paths before trimming. Do not use glue for structural joints.
Complete Instructions for Crochet Pumpkin Pie Slice Cushion
Make the Two Identical Triangular Faces
- Top face in orange, bottom face in tan: make one of each. Row 1: ch 3, sc in second chain and last chain. (2 sts) Ch 1 and turn. Mark the little foundation edge as the slice tip.
- Row 2: inc in first stitch, sc in each intervening stitch, inc in last stitch; ch 1 and turn. (4 sts)
- Row 3: sc in every stitch; ch 1 and turn. (4 sts)
- Row 4: inc in first stitch, sc in each intervening stitch, inc in last stitch; ch 1 and turn. (6 sts)
- Row 5: sc in every stitch; ch 1 and turn. (6 sts)
- Row 6: inc in first stitch, sc in each intervening stitch, inc in last stitch; ch 1 and turn. (8 sts)
- Row 7: sc in every stitch; ch 1 and turn. (8 sts)
- Row 8: inc in first stitch, sc in each intervening stitch, inc in last stitch; ch 1 and turn. (10 sts)
- Row 9: sc in every stitch; ch 1 and turn. (10 sts)
- Row 10: inc in first stitch, sc in each intervening stitch, inc in last stitch; ch 1 and turn. (12 sts)
- Row 11: sc in every stitch; ch 1 and turn. (12 sts)
- Row 12: inc in first stitch, sc in each intervening stitch, inc in last stitch; ch 1 and turn. (14 sts)
- Row 13: sc in every stitch; ch 1 and turn. (14 sts)
- Row 14: inc in first stitch, sc in each intervening stitch, inc in last stitch; ch 1 and turn. (16 sts)
- Row 15: sc in every stitch; ch 1 and turn. (16 sts)
- Row 16: inc in first stitch, sc in each intervening stitch, inc in last stitch; ch 1 and turn. (18 sts)
- Row 17: sc in every stitch; ch 1 and turn. (18 sts)
- Row 18: inc in first stitch, sc in each intervening stitch, inc in last stitch; ch 1 and turn. (20 sts)
- Row 19: sc in every stitch; ch 1 and turn. (20 sts)
- Row 20: inc in first stitch, sc in each intervening stitch, inc in last stitch; ch 1 and turn. (22 sts)
- Row 21: sc in every stitch; ch 1 and turn. (22 sts)
- Row 22: inc in first stitch, sc in each intervening stitch, inc in last stitch; ch 1 and turn. (24 sts)
- Row 23: sc in every stitch; ch 1 and turn. (24 sts)
- Row 24: inc in first stitch, sc in each intervening stitch, inc in last stitch; ch 1 and turn. (26 sts)
- Row 25: sc in every stitch; ch 1 and turn. (26 sts)
- Row 26: inc in first stitch, sc in each intervening stitch, inc in last stitch; ch 1 and turn. (28 sts)
- Row 27: sc in every stitch; ch 1 and turn. (28 sts)
- Row 28: inc in first stitch, sc in each intervening stitch, inc in last stitch; ch 1 and turn. (30 sts)
- Row 29: sc in every stitch; ch 1 and turn. (30 sts)
- Row 30: inc in first stitch, sc in each intervening stitch, inc in last stitch; ch 1 and turn. (32 sts)
- Row 31: sc in every stitch; ch 1 and turn. (32 sts)
- Row 32: inc in first stitch, sc in each intervening stitch, inc in last stitch; ch 1 and turn. (34 sts)
- Row 33: sc in every stitch; ch 1 and turn. (34 sts)
- Row 34: inc in first stitch, sc in each intervening stitch, inc in last stitch; ch 1 and turn. (36 sts)
- Row 35: sc in every stitch; ch 1 and turn. (36 sts)
- Row 36: inc in first stitch, sc in each intervening stitch, inc in last stitch; ch 1 and turn. (38 sts)
- Row 37: sc in every stitch; ch 1 and turn. (38 sts)
- Row 38: inc in first stitch, sc in each intervening stitch, inc in last stitch; ch 1 and turn. (40 sts)
- Row 39: sc in every stitch; ch 1 and turn. (40 sts)
- Row 40: sc in every stitch; do not turn. Leave the working loop live. (40 sts)
- Each face has forty rows and ends forty stitches wide. Lay both faces together before adding borders; they must match. Do not mistake a turning chain for a new edge stitch.
- Border: ch 1 and work one sc in each of the forty row ends down the first sloping edge, one sc in each of forty row ends up the other sloping edge, then one sc in each of the forty stitches of Row 40. (120 sts) Join first border sc and fasten off. At the narrow tip, the two Row 1 row-end pickups meet; do not add a corner increase or another stitch into the foundation chain. Mark the three boundaries between the forty-stitch edge groups. Make the identical border on the other face in its own color.

Crochet the Three-Sided Gusset
- With orange, ch 120 loosely and join first chain without twisting. Place markers after chains 40, 80 and 120. Round 1: ch 1, sc in first eighty chains with orange, then sc in the final forty chains with tan. (120 sts) Change color on the last pull-through of orange stitch 80, then change back on the last pull-through of tan stitch 120 and join first sc.
- Rounds 2-12: ch 1, sc in the first eighty stitches with orange and the final forty with tan; change colors exactly as in Round 1, join and do not turn. (120 sts) Keep corner markers between stitches 40/41, 80/81 and 120/1. The two orange sections are the slice sides and the tan section is the rear crust side.
- Because joined rounds travel in one direction, cut the inactive color with an eight-inch tail at every change instead of trailing a long float around the interior. Secure the tails to the same-colored fabric on the wrong side in three directions. Check that no join gap remains; close a gap with its tail, not an uncounted stitch. Fasten off after Round 12.
- Stand the gusset on a table and shape it around a bordered face. Its markers must meet the triangle corners, with the tan forty-stitch section at the wide rear. Compare every edge without stretching. If one piece cannot lie naturally against the other, correct its gauge before assembly. The gusset should be about 2.4 inches tall.

Sew, Stuff and Add the Ribbed Crust
- Place the tan bottom right side outward against the lower gusset rim. With matching yarn, whipstitch through corresponding border stitches and gusset foundation-chain positions, one to one, aligning all three markers. Complete this entire 120-position seam. Keep the side walls outside, not folded under the face.
- Match the orange top to the upper gusset rim, again with all three corners aligned. Sew ninety-six of the 120 matching positions, leaving a twenty-four-stitch opening centered on one orange side. Add small tufts of stuffing through that opening, first into the narrow tip and then toward the rear corners. Keep the wedge softly filled and its upper face fairly flat.
- Close the remaining twenty-four pairs with the same seam. Massage the stuffing from outside to remove lumps. No weight, wire or internal cardboard is used. Weave the seam tail through the gusset in three directions.
- Crust Row 1 in tan: ch 41, sc in second chain and every remaining chain. (40 sts) Rows 2-12: ch 1, turn, sc BLO in each stitch. (40 sts) Fasten off with a long sewing tail. Fold the strip lengthwise so its foundation edge meets Row 12, forming a forty-stitch-long double-layer band about one inch high.
- Whipstitch forty matching long-edge positions together; close each short folded end by sewing its six matched row-end pairs. Sew the joined long edge of this doubled crust to the top rear forty-stitch seam, one stitch per seam position. The folded edge stands above the orange top, while the seam edge rests against the rear wall. Secure each end with several stitches into the rear corner so it cannot peel away.
- Check every seam under gentle pressure, especially the tip and crust ends. Remove all markers and loose tails. Surface clean or wash according to yarn and stuffing labels and dry completely through the center. Keep it away from open flames and use only as a decorative cushion, never in an infant sleep space.
Assembly and Shaping
Border each face with exactly 120 sc divided into three marked forty-stitch edges. Match those markers to the gusset corners, sew one full gusset rim to the tan bottom and most of the other rim to the orange top, stuff lightly, and close the final opening. Sew the folded tan crust along the forty-stitch rear edge.
Lay every component on a flat surface before joining. Match the marked centers first, then divide each remaining edge into equal sections. Work through both layers with consistent tension and pause after each section to check that the fabric lies flat. This measured approach prevents twisting and keeps decorative details facing the intended direction.

Finishing
- Weave each yarn tail through several same-color stitches, reverse direction twice and stretch the fabric gently before trimming.
- Block to the stated shape according to the yarn label and let every component dry fully before final assembly.
- Inspect the first and last row, joins, edges, and any sewn attachment from both sides; repair loose stitches before use.
- Include the fiber content, finished dimensions and care instructions when gifting. Keep yarn projects away from open flames and direct heat.
For a polished result, weave each tail through several same-color stitches, reverse direction once, and trim only after the fabric has been gently stretched. Block to the listed dimensions without flattening textured stitches. Inspect joins, borders, straps, and decorative pieces before the project is used or gifted.
Helpful Tips
- Place removable markers at each shaping repeat and record the count before beginning the next row.
- Use a contrasting cloth behind dark yarn so it is easier to see both loops of every stitch.
- Lay the piece flat and compare opposite sides at each measurement checkpoint rather than pulling one side to match.
- If an edge ripples or cups unexpectedly, stop and check stitch count and washed gauge before adding a border.
Good lighting and a contrasting stitch marker make counting much easier. If a section looks uneven, compare the current count with the previous checkpoint before continuing. Fixing one missed stitch early is faster than compensating later, and it preserves the measurements used by the assembly instructions.

Frequently Asked Questions
Is the cushion a baby sleep item?
No. It is decorative room styling, not an infant sleep product or a support cushion.
Why is my gusset longer than the face?
Row and stitch gauge affect the sloping triangle edges differently. Match the three measured edge lengths before sewing; adjust hook size for the gusset and reswatch instead of stretching the face.
Can I add cream on top?
This design has no topping. The complete pattern finishes with a plain orange face and a permanently attached tan crust.
Conclusion
Keep the measured dimensions and yarn details with your pattern notes. Check the construction and safety guidance before styling or gifting the finished crochet project.
BabyYarnie Printable Crochet Pattern Card

BabyYarnie — easy-to-follow crochet for everyday makers.
Project: Crochet Pumpkin Pie Slice Cushion
Skill level: Intermediate Hook: 4 mm or size giving firm stuffing-resistant single crochet Yarn: Worsted
Finished size: Approximately 8.4 inches across the back, 7 inches from crust to tip and 2.4 inches high, plus a one-inch crust
Card Materials
- Approximately 240 yards pumpkin-orange worsted yarn and 170 yards golden-tan worsted yarn of matching thickness
- 4 mm hook, locking markers, blunt needle, scissors and tape measure
- Approximately 120-180 g washable polyester stuffing, added gradually rather than packed hard
Card Instructions
- Make the Two Identical Triangular Faces: The triangles grow from two to forty stitches, increasing on even rows through Row 38; each gets a three-part 120-stitch border.
- Crochet the Three-Sided Gusset: The gusset has twelve joined rounds of 120 sc; eighty orange stitches and forty tan stitches stay vertically aligned.
- Sew, Stuff and Add the Ribbed Crust: Face and gusset edges join one to one; a forty-stitch double-layer ribbed strip forms the permanent rear crust.
Finish: Check every count, weave in all ends, block to measurement, and inspect each join.
