Crochet Hedgehog Triangle Lovey – Free Pattern

This original crochet hedgehog lovey uses the construction described in its own design brief: A soft triangular linen-stitch cloth with a shallow stuffed hedgehog head at one point and low loop-free puff-stitch spines clustered on the upper third; embroidered face. The written stitch arithmetic is checked, while gauge and fit must still be confirmed by making a sample before gifting or use.

Work a true point-to-base linen-stitch triangle with two edge increases per row. A counted cluster of low, closed puffs forms integral spines near the apex. Two shallow face discs join securely around a tiny amount of washable stuffing and are double-sewn to the point; all facial details are embroidery.

Pattern Details

• Hook Size: 4 mm for the cloth; 3.5 mm for the head, adjusted to washed gauge
• Finished Size: Planning target: 12-inch base by 10-inch point-to-base triangle; flat head about 2 inches across
• Gauge: 16 counted linen-stitch positions and 10 triangle rows = 4 inches, washed; head 20 sc = 4 inches
• Estimated Time: 5–7 hours
• Construction: 24 point-to-base rows, 3 to 49 counted positions; low puffs on Rows 5–10; two 24-stitch face discs
• Skill level: Intermediate

Why You’ll Love This Project

The shaping is visible at each checkpoint, so a maker can count, measure, and correct the fabric before assembly. The result is a distinct project rather than a recoloring of an older pattern.

Materials

• Planning allowance 260 yards washable DK cotton-blend yarn in warm taupe, 35 yards chestnut for spines and head back, 25 yards cream for the face, plus swatch allowance
• Small quantity of washable stuffing and dark-brown embroidery yarn; 4 mm and 3.5 mm hooks, six removable markers, blunt needle, tape measure and scissors

Gauge, Measurements, and Planning

A counted ch-1 space is one position just like a sc. Wash a sample containing at least 16 positions and 10 turned rows. The 49-position final edge targets about 12 inches and 24 rows target about 10 inches; these are planning estimates. If your swatch differs, adjust the hook before the full cloth, not the increase count.

Make and wash a gauge swatch before beginning. Measure only after the swatch is completely dry. If the stitch width differs, change hook size rather than pulling the working yarn tighter. Keep a written count at the end of every section so the finished edges remain balanced and the assembly points line up.

Abbreviations and Special Stitches

• ch: chain
• sc: single crochet
• hdc: half double crochet
• dc: double crochet
• sl st: slip stitch
• st(s): stitch(es)
• rnd: round
• BLO: back loop only
• inc: two single crochets in one stitch
• sc2tog: single crochet two stitches together
• dec: single crochet two together
• RS: right side
• WS: wrong side

Special stitch guidance: Linen-stitch interior: sc in the first interior position, then repeat [ch 1, skip one old position, sc in the next] across the remaining pairs. Work into each previous-row ch-1 space as one position. Closed low puff: yarn over, insert in the named position and draw up a loop three times, yarn over and draw through all seven loops, ch 1 to lock; this replaces one interior sc and still counts as one position, not as a loop or fringe.

Important Notes

• Development note: the written stitch arithmetic is computationally checked, but no physically crocheted sample or wear test is claimed. Gauge, yardage, fit and dimensions are planning targets; swatch and check before gifting.
• Beginning chains and joining slip stitches do not count unless the step explicitly says otherwise. Mark the first counted stitch and write down every shaping count.
• Use soft washable yarn. Do not add plastic eyes, beads, buttons, long ties or other detachable parts to young-child projects.
• AI-generated photographs are design illustrations, not stitch charts or evidence of a physically tested sample. Follow the written counts and your measured gauge.
• Use only with supervision. These projects are not for infant sleep or unsupervised crib use; inspect seams and attachments before each use.

Complete Instructions for Crochet Hedgehog Triangle Lovey

Build the Linen-Stitch Triangle

1. With taupe and 4 mm hook, make a magic ring. Row 1: 3 sc in ring, pull closed, ch 1 and turn. (3 sts) Mark both outside stitches; this is the head point.
2. Each later row grows by one counted position at each edge. The ch 1 used to turn never counts. On a ch-1 space of the preceding row, insert the hook under the space rather than into a chain loop.
3. Row 2: ch 1, turn; 2 sc in the first old position; sc in the first interior position; repeat [ch 1, skip one old position, sc in the next] 0 times; 2 sc in the final old position. (5 sts)
4. Row 3: ch 1, turn; 2 sc in the first old position; sc in the first interior position; repeat [ch 1, skip one old position, sc in the next] 1 times; 2 sc in the final old position. (7 sts)
5. Row 4: ch 1, turn; 2 sc in the first old position; sc in the first interior position; repeat [ch 1, skip one old position, sc in the next] 2 times; 2 sc in the final old position. (9 sts)
6. Row 5: ch 1, turn; 2 sc in the first old position; sc in the first interior position; repeat [ch 1, skip one old position, sc in the next] 3 times; 2 sc in the final old position. In chestnut, replace interior sc numbers 2, 3 with closed low puffs; return to taupe on the final yarn-over. (11 sts)
7. Row 6: ch 1, turn; 2 sc in the first old position; sc in the first interior position; repeat [ch 1, skip one old position, sc in the next] 4 times; 2 sc in the final old position. In chestnut, replace interior sc numbers 2, 3, 4 with closed low puffs; return to taupe on the final yarn-over. (13 sts)
8. Row 7: ch 1, turn; 2 sc in the first old position; sc in the first interior position; repeat [ch 1, skip one old position, sc in the next] 5 times; 2 sc in the final old position. In chestnut, replace interior sc numbers 3, 4, 5 with closed low puffs; return to taupe on the final yarn-over. (15 sts)
9. Row 8: ch 1, turn; 2 sc in the first old position; sc in the first interior position; repeat [ch 1, skip one old position, sc in the next] 6 times; 2 sc in the final old position. In chestnut, replace interior sc numbers 3, 4, 5 with closed low puffs; return to taupe on the final yarn-over. (17 sts)
10. Row 9: ch 1, turn; 2 sc in the first old position; sc in the first interior position; repeat [ch 1, skip one old position, sc in the next] 7 times; 2 sc in the final old position. In chestnut, replace interior sc numbers 3, 4, 5 with closed low puffs; return to taupe on the final yarn-over. (19 sts)
11. Row 10: ch 1, turn; 2 sc in the first old position; sc in the first interior position; repeat [ch 1, skip one old position, sc in the next] 8 times; 2 sc in the final old position. In chestnut, replace interior sc numbers 4, 5, 6 with closed low puffs; return to taupe on the final yarn-over. (21 sts)
12. Row 11: ch 1, turn; 2 sc in the first old position; sc in the first interior position; repeat [ch 1, skip one old position, sc in the next] 9 times; 2 sc in the final old position. (23 sts)
13. Row 12: ch 1, turn; 2 sc in the first old position; sc in the first interior position; repeat [ch 1, skip one old position, sc in the next] 10 times; 2 sc in the final old position. (25 sts)
14. Row 13: ch 1, turn; 2 sc in the first old position; sc in the first interior position; repeat [ch 1, skip one old position, sc in the next] 11 times; 2 sc in the final old position. (27 sts)
15. Row 14: ch 1, turn; 2 sc in the first old position; sc in the first interior position; repeat [ch 1, skip one old position, sc in the next] 12 times; 2 sc in the final old position. (29 sts)
16. Row 15: ch 1, turn; 2 sc in the first old position; sc in the first interior position; repeat [ch 1, skip one old position, sc in the next] 13 times; 2 sc in the final old position. (31 sts)
17. Row 16: ch 1, turn; 2 sc in the first old position; sc in the first interior position; repeat [ch 1, skip one old position, sc in the next] 14 times; 2 sc in the final old position. (33 sts)
18. Row 17: ch 1, turn; 2 sc in the first old position; sc in the first interior position; repeat [ch 1, skip one old position, sc in the next] 15 times; 2 sc in the final old position. (35 sts)
19. Row 18: ch 1, turn; 2 sc in the first old position; sc in the first interior position; repeat [ch 1, skip one old position, sc in the next] 16 times; 2 sc in the final old position. (37 sts)
20. Row 19: ch 1, turn; 2 sc in the first old position; sc in the first interior position; repeat [ch 1, skip one old position, sc in the next] 17 times; 2 sc in the final old position. (39 sts)
21. Row 20: ch 1, turn; 2 sc in the first old position; sc in the first interior position; repeat [ch 1, skip one old position, sc in the next] 18 times; 2 sc in the final old position. (41 sts)
22. Row 21: ch 1, turn; 2 sc in the first old position; sc in the first interior position; repeat [ch 1, skip one old position, sc in the next] 19 times; 2 sc in the final old position. (43 sts)
23. Row 22: ch 1, turn; 2 sc in the first old position; sc in the first interior position; repeat [ch 1, skip one old position, sc in the next] 20 times; 2 sc in the final old position. (45 sts)
24. Row 23: ch 1, turn; 2 sc in the first old position; sc in the first interior position; repeat [ch 1, skip one old position, sc in the next] 21 times; 2 sc in the final old position. (47 sts)
25. Row 24: ch 1, turn; 2 sc in the first old position; sc in the first interior position; repeat [ch 1, skip one old position, sc in the next] 22 times; 2 sc in the final old position. (49 sts)
26. After Row 24, fasten off and measure the 49-position base and point-to-base depth on the washed, flat cloth. The puffs occupy only Rows 5–10 near the head point; there are no loose loops, tassels or fringe.

Crochet and Embroider the Shallow Head

1. Front face in cream with 3.5 mm hook: magic ring, 6 sc for Round 1. (6 sts) Round 2: inc in each stitch. (12 sts) Round 3: [sc, inc] six times. (18 sts) Round 4: [sc in next two, inc] six times. (24 sts) Join and leave a long sewing tail.
2. Make a chestnut back disc with exactly the same four rounds and counts: 6, 12, 18, 24 stitches. Keep both discs flat; do not add ears, beads, plastic eyes or raised pieces.
3. Before joining the discs, embroider two short dark-brown closed eyes over Round 3 positions approximately opposite each other, and a small triangular nose with two short side whisker strokes. Stitch two chestnut ear arcs flat against the face edge. Secure each thread on the wrong side by reversing through several stitches.
4. Put wrong sides together. Whipstitch 20 distinct pairs of perimeter stitches, add only a thin, even layer of washable stuffing, then sew the last four pairs. Repeat the perimeter seam once. (24 joined stitch pairs) The result must be low and compressible, not a firm toy head.

Attach, Wash and Inspect

1. Mark eight consecutive stitches of the head seam and eight matching stitch sites across the triangle point and Rows 1–3. Sew each matched pair twice with the cream sewing tail, including both disc layers and the cloth; bury the tail in two directions.
2. Gently tug the joined head and each puff. No loop, tail or seam should lift. Weave all cloth ends in three directions without making a hard knot against the skin.
3. Wash and dry flat according to the yarn label. Recheck the head seam, eye and nose embroidery, triangle dimensions and low spine texture after drying.
4. Use only during supervised play. Never put the lovey in an infant sleep space; this untested sample plan is not a certified toy or safe-sleep product.

Assembly and Shaping

Align eight consecutive stitches on the finished head seam with the triangle tip and upper edge stitches of Rows 1–3. Sew through both disc layers and the cloth at eight distinct sites, then reverse through the same sites for a second pass. The head stays shallow and the spine puffs remain integral to the cloth.

Lay every component on a flat surface before joining. Match the marked centers first, then divide each remaining edge into equal sections. Work through both layers with consistent tension and pause after each section to check that the fabric lies flat. This measured approach prevents twisting and keeps decorative details facing the intended direction.

Finishing

1. Fasten off with a long tail and weave it through three separate stitch groups, reversing direction twice.
2. Wash and dry according to the yarn label; measure again only after the fabric is fully dry.
3. Inspect both sides of every seam and embroidered feature; remove all markers and repair any loose end.
4. Keep a written note of the finished dimensions, yarn, hook and care instructions with the gift.

For a polished result, weave each tail through several same-color stitches, reverse direction once, and trim only after the fabric has been gently stretched. Block to the listed dimensions without flattening textured stitches. Inspect joins, borders, straps, and decorative pieces before the project is used or gifted.

Helpful Tips

• Make a generous washed gauge swatch; compare stitches and rows per inch separately.
• Place contrasting markers at every segment boundary and recount before and after shaping.
• Check dimensions against an existing well-fitting item; never pin a project directly on a child.
• If a section cups, flares, or twists, fix the underlying count or gauge instead of hiding it in a seam.

Good lighting and a contrasting stitch marker make counting much easier. If a section looks uneven, compare the current count with the previous checkpoint before continuing. Fixing one missed stitch early is faster than compensating later, and it preserves the measurements used by the assembly instructions.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is this pattern physically tested?

No physical sample test is claimed. The written counts are audited; make a gauge swatch and verify the complete finished sample before gifting.

Can I change the yarn?

Yes, but only after matching washed stitch and row gauge and checking fabric softness and recovery. Yardage and dimensions change with fiber and tension.

Is this suitable for unsupervised infant sleep?

No. Use only with supervision, omit detachable pieces, and follow current safe-sleep guidance.

Conclusion

Check the finished dimensions against your washed gauge and inspect every seam and embroidered feature. Record any size adjustments and make a complete physical sample before relying on the fit.

BabyYarnie Printable Crochet Pattern Card

BabyYarnie — easy-to-follow crochet for everyday makers.

Project: Crochet Hedgehog Triangle Lovey

Skill level: Intermediate   Hook: 4 mm for the cloth; 3.5 mm for the head, adjusted to washed gauge   Yarn: DK cotton blend

Finished size: Planning target: 12-inch base by 10-inch point-to-base triangle; flat head about 2 inches across

Card Materials

• Planning allowance 260 yards washable DK cotton-blend yarn in warm taupe, 35 yards chestnut for spines and head back, 25 yards cream for the face, plus swatch allowance
• Small quantity of washable stuffing and dark-brown embroidery yarn; 4 mm and 3.5 mm hooks, six removable markers, blunt needle, tape measure and scissors

Card Instructions

1. Build the Linen-Stitch Triangle: Point-to-base linen-stitch triangle: 3 stitches at Row 1, two edge increases per row, 49 at Row 24; closed puffs on Rows 5–10.
2. Crochet and Embroider the Shallow Head: Two 24-stitch flat discs with embroidered features; double-seam the perimeter around minimal stuffing.
3. Attach, Wash and Inspect: Double-secure head to triangle point and inspect all low, loop-free spines before supervised use.

Finish: Check every count, weave in all ends, block to measurement, and inspect each join.