Crochet Frog Lily-Pad Lovey – Free Pattern

This original crochet frog lovey uses the construction described in its own design brief: A one-piece round green lily-pad cloth with a shallow wedge notch, two broad stitched leaf ribs, and a small flat frog face appliqué sewn into the opposite edge; embroidered features. The written stitch arithmetic is checked, while gauge and fit must still be confirmed by making a sample before gifting or use.

A green center-out circle becomes a lily pad when six short turned outer rows omit two stitches at each edge, opening a shallow widening wedge. Two relaxed surface-stitch ribs radiate from the center. One flat frog-face disc is sewn to the opposite outer edge and finished only with embroidery.

Pattern Details

• Hook Size: 4 mm for pad; 3.5 mm for face
• Finished Size: Pad approximately 10–11 inches across after blocking; shallow notch approximately 1.3 inches deep
• Gauge: Target 16 sc and 18 rows/rounds = 4 inches, washed
• Estimated Time: 5–8 hours
• Construction: Twelve full six-increase rounds to 72 stitches, six turned notched rows with six increases each and two unworked positions at both ends, one flat 24-stitch frog face and two stitched leaf ribs
• Skill level: Intermediate

Why You’ll Love This Project

The shaping is visible at each checkpoint, so a maker can count, measure, and correct the fabric before assembly. The result is a distinct project rather than a recoloring of an older pattern.

Materials

• Planning allowance 260 yards washable leaf-green DK cotton-blend yarn for pad
• Approximately 35 yards bright green DK cotton-blend yarn for flat frog face
• Small lengths dark-brown and blush washable embroidery yarn, 4 mm and 3.5 mm hooks, six markers, blunt needle, tape measure and scissors

Gauge, Measurements, and Planning

At four stitches per inch the twelve-round center reaches a broad flat disc. The six outer rows add roughly 1.3 inches of depth while leaving a short V-shaped notch. Block flat without stretching the gap closed. Recount all six increases if the edge waves; a different yarn or gauge changes the finished size.

Make and wash a gauge swatch before beginning. Measure only after the swatch is completely dry. If the stitch width differs, change hook size rather than pulling the working yarn tighter. Keep a written count at the end of every section so the finished edges remain balanced and the assembly points line up.

Abbreviations and Special Stitches

• ch: chain
• sc: single crochet
• hdc: half double crochet
• dc: double crochet
• sl st: slip stitch
• st(s): stitch(es)
• rnd: round
• BLO: back loop only
• inc: two single crochets in one stitch
• sc2tog: single crochet two stitches together
• dec: single crochet two together
• RS: right side
• WS: wrong side

Special stitch guidance: For each full round n, repeat [sc in next n−2 stitches, inc in next] six times. For a notched turned row, slip stitch loosely across two edge positions without counting them, then work the six specified segments, leaving the final two old positions unworked. Surface slip stitches for ribs are worked loosely so the pad stays flat.

Important Notes

• Development note: the written stitch arithmetic is computationally checked, but no physically crocheted sample or wear test is claimed. Gauge, yardage, fit and dimensions are planning targets; swatch and check before gifting.
• Beginning chains and joining slip stitches do not count unless the step explicitly says otherwise. Mark the first counted stitch and write down every shaping count.
• Use soft washable yarn. Do not add plastic eyes, beads, buttons, long ties or other detachable parts to young-child projects.
• AI-generated photographs are design illustrations, not stitch charts or evidence of a physically tested sample. Follow the written counts and your measured gauge.
• Use only with supervision. These projects are not for infant sleep or unsupervised crib use; inspect seams and attachments before each use.

Complete Instructions for Crochet Frog Lily-Pad Lovey

Crochet the Full Round Pad Center

1. With leaf green and 4 mm hook, make a magic ring. Round 1: 6 sc in the ring; pull closed, mark the first stitch and join without turning. (6 sts)
2. Round 2: inc in every old stitch. (12 sts) Round 3: repeat [sc in next stitch, inc in next] six times. (18 sts) Round 4: repeat [sc in next two, inc in next] six times. (24 sts)
3. Continue the same six-increase rule through Round 12: for Round n, repeat [sc in next n−2 old stitches, inc in next old stitch] six times. The count after Round n is 6n; Round 12 ends at (72 sts).
4. Move the six segment markers to the new increase positions. Cut yarn and rejoin it at the marked notch-start edge so the next row can be worked flat, not joined. The notch is made only in the outer six rows, not by cutting the disc.
5. Pad count checklist only—not extra rounds: Round 2: (12 sts); Round 3: (18 sts); Round 4: (24 sts); Round 5: (30 sts); Round 6: (36 sts); Round 7: (42 sts); Round 8: (48 sts); Round 9: (54 sts); Round 10: (60 sts); Round 11: (66 sts); Round 12: (72 sts).

Open the Shallow Lily-Pad Notch

1. For each row below, the first two and last two old stitches are skipped at the two notch edges. The six named segment lengths refer to old stitches consumed between those edges. A ch 1 at the turn does not count.
2. Notch Row 13: slip stitch loosely across the first two old stitches without counting them; work six consecutive segments of 12, 12, 11, 11, 11, 11 old stitches. In each segment sc in all but its final old stitch, then inc in that final stitch. Leave the final two old stitches unworked, ch 1 and turn. (74 sts)
3. Notch Row 14: slip stitch loosely across the first two old stitches without counting them; work six consecutive segments of 12, 12, 12, 12, 11, 11 old stitches. In each segment sc in all but its final old stitch, then inc in that final stitch. Leave the final two old stitches unworked, ch 1 and turn. (76 sts)
4. Notch Row 15: slip stitch loosely across the first two old stitches without counting them; work six consecutive segments of 12, 12, 12, 12, 12, 12 old stitches. In each segment sc in all but its final old stitch, then inc in that final stitch. Leave the final two old stitches unworked, ch 1 and turn. (78 sts)
5. Notch Row 16: slip stitch loosely across the first two old stitches without counting them; work six consecutive segments of 13, 13, 12, 12, 12, 12 old stitches. In each segment sc in all but its final old stitch, then inc in that final stitch. Leave the final two old stitches unworked, ch 1 and turn. (80 sts)
6. Notch Row 17: slip stitch loosely across the first two old stitches without counting them; work six consecutive segments of 13, 13, 13, 13, 12, 12 old stitches. In each segment sc in all but its final old stitch, then inc in that final stitch. Leave the final two old stitches unworked, ch 1 and turn. (82 sts)
7. Notch Row 18: slip stitch loosely across the first two old stitches without counting them; work six consecutive segments of 13, 13, 13, 13, 13, 13 old stitches. In each segment sc in all but its final old stitch, then inc in that final stitch. Leave the final two old stitches unworked, ch 1 and turn. (84 sts)
8. After Row 18 the worked outer arc has 84 stitches; the accumulated unworked edge positions form a V-shaped gap. Fasten off. If the notch lies flat and opens visibly, do not fill it with a border bridge.

Make the Flat Frog Face and Leaf Ribs

1. With bright green and 3.5 mm hook, make 6 sc in a magic ring. (6 sts) Increase evenly on Face Rounds 2–4 to 12, 18 and 24 stitches. (24 sts) Join and fasten off with a long sewing tail; keep the disc flat and unstuffed.
2. Embroider two small dark-brown eyes and a curved smile into the front of the disc. Add at most two short blush cheek stitches; bury every end beneath several wrong-side stitches. Do not use plastic eyes or buttons.
3. With leaf green, surface slip stitch one relaxed rib from just outside the center to an edge point a quarter turn clockwise from the notch. Repeat a second rib to a quarter turn counterclockwise. Keep each line flat without pulling the pad into a ridge.
4. Lay the frog face at the pad edge exactly opposite the notch and mark twelve corresponding face and pad stitches for a full seam. The other half of the face projects outward like a small flat tab.

Attach and Inspect the Lovey

1. Sew each of the twelve marked face-perimeter stitches to one distinct pad-edge stitch. Make a second complete pass and bury the sewing tail in two directions. Pull-test all twelve positions gently.
2. Weave all pad and rib tails through several same-color stitches, reverse direction and trim. Wash and dry flat; check that the notch stays open and both ribs stay relaxed.
3. Lay the pad on a table and verify it is a round leaf with one shallow V notch, two surface ribs and one flat frog face at the opposite edge. Do not confuse it with a stuffed frog toy or a square lovey.
4. Use only as a supervised comfort item, never for infant sleep or unsupervised crib use. Inspect every embroidered eye, the smile and the full face seam before each use.

Assembly and Shaping

Sew twelve consecutive face-disc perimeter stitches to twelve consecutive pad-edge stitches opposite the notch, leaving its other half projecting beyond the pad. Work two soft surface ribs from near the center toward separate outer-edge positions, burying all ends. Do not add stuffing, protruding eye pieces or loose ties.

Lay every component on a flat surface before joining. Match the marked centers first, then divide each remaining edge into equal sections. Work through both layers with consistent tension and pause after each section to check that the fabric lies flat. This measured approach prevents twisting and keeps decorative details facing the intended direction.

Finishing

1. Fasten off with a long tail and weave it through three separate stitch groups, reversing direction twice.
2. Wash and dry according to the yarn label; measure again only after the fabric is fully dry.
3. Inspect both sides of every seam and embroidered feature; remove all markers and repair any loose end.
4. Keep a written note of the finished dimensions, yarn, hook and care instructions with the gift.

For a polished result, weave each tail through several same-color stitches, reverse direction once, and trim only after the fabric has been gently stretched. Block to the listed dimensions without flattening textured stitches. Inspect joins, borders, straps, and decorative pieces before the project is used or gifted.

Helpful Tips

• Make a generous washed gauge swatch; compare stitches and rows per inch separately.
• Place contrasting markers at every segment boundary and recount before and after shaping.
• Check dimensions against an existing well-fitting item; never pin a project directly on a child.
• If a section cups, flares, or twists, fix the underlying count or gauge instead of hiding it in a seam.

Good lighting and a contrasting stitch marker make counting much easier. If a section looks uneven, compare the current count with the previous checkpoint before continuing. Fixing one missed stitch early is faster than compensating later, and it preserves the measurements used by the assembly instructions.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is this pattern physically tested?

No physical sample test is claimed. The written counts are audited; make a gauge swatch and verify the complete finished sample before gifting.

Can I change the yarn?

Yes, but only after matching washed stitch and row gauge and checking fabric softness and recovery. Yardage and dimensions change with fiber and tension.

Is this suitable for unsupervised infant sleep?

No. Use only with supervision, omit detachable pieces, and follow current safe-sleep guidance.

Conclusion

Check the finished dimensions against your washed gauge and inspect every seam and embroidered feature. Record any size adjustments and make a complete physical sample before relying on the fit.

BabyYarnie Printable Crochet Pattern Card

BabyYarnie — easy-to-follow crochet for everyday makers.

Project: Crochet Frog Lily-Pad Lovey

Skill level: Intermediate   Hook: 4 mm for pad; 3.5 mm for face   Yarn: DK cotton blend

Finished size: Pad approximately 10–11 inches across after blocking; shallow notch approximately 1.3 inches deep

Card Materials

• Planning allowance 260 yards washable leaf-green DK cotton-blend yarn for pad
• Approximately 35 yards bright green DK cotton-blend yarn for flat frog face
• Small lengths dark-brown and blush washable embroidery yarn, 4 mm and 3.5 mm hooks, six markers, blunt needle, tape measure and scissors

Card Instructions

1. Crochet the Full Round Pad Center: Twelve flat circular rounds, six increases each, end at 72 stitches.
2. Open the Shallow Lily-Pad Notch: Six short outer rows widen the shallow wedge notch while the worked arc grows 72 to 84 stitches.
3. Make the Flat Frog Face and Leaf Ribs: A 24-stitch flat embroidered face and two soft radial leaf ribs complete the motif.
4. Attach and Inspect the Lovey: Double-seam the flat face opposite the notch and inspect all embroidered details.

Finish: Check every count, weave in all ends, block to measurement, and inspect each join.