Crochet Sitting Red Panda Amigurumi – Free Pattern

This original crochet sitting red panda amigurumi answers the crochet red panda amigurumi search with a complete construction rather than a decorative idea alone. The written instructions use US crochet terms and explicitly name shaping, assembly and fit checks. Gauge and measurements are planning targets; make a washed swatch before committing to a size.

The rust body and head are one continuous stuffed shape. Two compact dark feet support the seated front; a long rust-and-cinnamon ringed tail curves along the base. Flat cream cheeks, small triangular inner ears and embroidered facial features give the animal its red-panda character without plastic eyes.

Pattern Details

• Hook Size: 3.5 mm, adjusted for dense fabric
• Finished Size: Planning height about 6.5 inches including ears; tail about 4.7 inches before shaping
• Gauge: Target 20 sc and 24 rounds = 4 inches, with no visible stuffing gaps
• Estimated Time: 8-12 hours
• Construction: One-piece body/head, sewn limbs and ears, flat cheek patches and reinforced ringed tail
• Skill level: Intermediate

Why You’ll Love This Project

The project has a practical use and a recognizable silhouette. Each component has its own checkpoint so you can compare the count and size before joining. The stitch choices and finishing are intended to give the object a distinctive handmade texture without relying on another pattern or image.

Materials

• Approximately 150 yards rust worsted yarn, 70 yards dark brown, 40 yards cinnamon and 25 yards cream, all same weight
• Small amount of black embroidery thread, washable fiberfill, 3.5 mm hook, six markers, blunt yarn needle, scissors and tape measure; no pellets, wire or plastic eyes

Gauge, Measurements, and Planning

Make a dense sc swatch and check that stuffing does not show when lightly stretched. The largest head round has 48 sc, about 9.6 inches around at gauge. Thirty-six body/head rounds give about six inches before ears. Stuff gradually so the lower body stays broad and its bottom can sit flat; too much stuffing will make it rock. Yarn and tension affect final size.

Make and wash a gauge swatch before beginning. Measure only after the swatch is completely dry. If the stitch width differs, change hook size rather than pulling the working yarn tighter. Keep a written count at the end of every section so the finished edges remain balanced and the assembly points line up.

Abbreviations and Special Stitches

• ch: chain
• sc: single crochet
• hdc: half double crochet
• dc: double crochet
• sl st: slip stitch
• st(s): stitch(es)
• rnd: round
• BLO: back loop only
• inc: two stitches in one stitch
• sc2tog: single-crochet two stitches together
• hdc2tog: half-double-crochet two stitches together

Special stitch guidance: Invisible decrease: insert hook through the front loop of each of the next two stitches, yarn over and draw through those two loops, yarn over and complete sc. Two old stitches become one. Work continuous spirals without joining or turning, except where a flat panel explicitly says to turn. Move the round marker after every round. Change colors in the final yarn-over of the preceding stitch and secure ends inside.

Important Notes

• Development note: the written stitch arithmetic has been checked computationally, but this design has not been physically sample-tested. Gauge, yardage, fit and dimensions are planning targets. Make a swatch and a trial fit or assembly before gifting.
• Turning chains and joining slip stitches are not counted unless a step explicitly says otherwise. Mark the first counted stitch of each round or the first and last stitches of a flat row.
• Use the washed gauge to check dimensions at each named checkpoint. If the count is right but the measurement is wrong, change hook or yarn and reswatch rather than adding unplanned stitches.
• Keep all yarn tails on the wrong side and weave them through three different stitch paths before trimming. Do not use glue for structural joints.

Complete Instructions for Crochet Sitting Red Panda Amigurumi

Shape the One-Piece Rust Body and Head

1. With rust make a magic ring. Body/Head Round 1: 6 sc into the ring, tighten, mark first stitch and continue in a spiral. (6 sts)
2. Round 2: [sc in next 0 stitches, inc in next stitch] six times; omit zero sc at Round 2. (12 sts)
3. Round 3: [sc in next 1 stitches, inc in next stitch] six times; omit zero sc at Round 2. (18 sts)
4. Round 4: [sc in next 2 stitches, inc in next stitch] six times; omit zero sc at Round 2. (24 sts)
5. Round 5: [sc in next 3 stitches, inc in next stitch] six times; omit zero sc at Round 2. (30 sts)
6. Round 6: [sc in next 4 stitches, inc in next stitch] six times; omit zero sc at Round 2. (36 sts)
7. Round 7: [sc in next 5 stitches, inc in next stitch] six times; omit zero sc at Round 2. (42 sts)
8. Rounds 8-15: sc in every stitch. (42 sts) Keep the bottom broad and lightly stuffed so it can rest on a table.
9. Round 16: [sc in next 5 stitches, invisible decrease] six times. (36 sts)
10. Round 17: [sc in next 4 stitches, invisible decrease] six times. (30 sts)
11. Round 18: [sc in next 3 stitches, invisible decrease] six times. (24 sts)
12. Round 19: sc in every stitch. (24 sts) Add body stuffing gradually; continue directly into the head without a neck seam.
13. Round 20: [sc in next 3 stitches, inc] six times. (30 sts)
14. Round 21: [sc in next 4 stitches, inc] six times. (36 sts)
15. Round 22: [sc in next 5 stitches, inc] six times. (42 sts)
16. Round 23: [sc in next 6 stitches, inc] six times. (48 sts)
17. Rounds 24-29: sc in every stitch. (48 sts) Before closing, make the cheek and muzzle patches below, sew them to the front and embroider the face. Position eyes on the cream cheek patches with short black stitches, and a small black triangular nose on the cream muzzle. Tie and bury all thread ends inside the head.
18. Round 30: [sc in next 6 stitches, invisible decrease] six times; omit zero sc in Round 36. (42 sts)
19. Round 31: [sc in next 5 stitches, invisible decrease] six times; omit zero sc in Round 36. (36 sts)
20. Round 32: [sc in next 4 stitches, invisible decrease] six times; omit zero sc in Round 36. (30 sts)
21. Round 33: [sc in next 3 stitches, invisible decrease] six times; omit zero sc in Round 36. (24 sts)
22. Round 34: [sc in next 2 stitches, invisible decrease] six times; omit zero sc in Round 36. (18 sts)
23. Round 35: [sc in next 1 stitches, invisible decrease] six times; omit zero sc in Round 36. (12 sts) Finish adding head stuffing before this round.
24. Round 36: [sc in next 0 stitches, invisible decrease] six times; omit zero sc in Round 36. (6 sts)
25. Cut yarn, thread through the final six front loops, draw closed and bury the tail through the head three times. Do not pull the neck into a tight crease.

Make and Sew the Face and Ears

1. Cheeks, make two in cream: ch 5. Round 1: 3 sc in second chain, sc in next two chains, 3 sc in last chain; rotate to underside, sc in next two chain positions. (10 sts) Round 2: inc in each of the three stitches of each rounded end and sc in the four straight-side stitches. (16 sts) Sl st to finish; leave sewing tails.
2. Muzzle, make one in cream: repeat Cheek Round 1 only. (10 sts) Keep all three patches flat and unstuffed. On head Rounds 24-28, center the cheeks near positions 20 and30 of the 48-stitch round, equally spaced from front-center stitch25. Place the smaller muzzle just below and between them. Pin and view from front before sewing every patch edge down.
3. Outer ears, make two in rust: magic ring6 sc (6 sts); Round 2 inc six times (12 sts); Round 3 [sc,inc] six times (18 sts); Round 4 sc around (18 sts). Do not stuff. Flatten each into a nine-stitch-wide double layer and close the lower edge with nine sc through matching pairs.
4. Inner ears, make two in cream: ch 5; Row 1 sc in second chain and next three, ch1 and turn (4 sts). Row 2 sc2tog twice, ch1 and turn (2 sts). Row 3 sc2tog once (1 sts). Sew each tiny triangle flat to a rust ear with its point toward the folded top. Sew the entire ear lower edge to the head around Rounds 30-33, equally to either side of the front center, checking the pair from front and above.

Make the Compact Dark Limbs

1. Feet, make two in dark brown: Round 1 magic ring6 (6 sts); Round2 inc six times (12 sts); Round3 [sc,inc] six times (18 sts). Rounds4-6 sc around (18 sts). Round7 [sc, invisible decrease] six times (12 sts). Lightly stuff the toe only, flatten the opening and sew its six matched stitch pairs closed. Leave a sewing tail.
2. Arms, make two in dark brown: Round1 magic ring6 (6 sts); Round2 inc six times (12 sts); Rounds3-7 sc around (12 sts). Lightly stuff the paw end, leave the upper half soft, flatten and sew six matched stitch pairs closed.
3. Seat the body on a flat surface. Pin the two feet to lower-front body Rounds4-8, equally either side of the front center, with toes pointing forward. Sew the full flattened edge and a short side contact line for each foot. Attach arms to body Rounds12-15 at the two sides, sewing their full six-stitch top edges twice through secure body loops. Check that both arms and legs match in height.

Stripe the Tail and Secure the Seated Pose

1. Tail in dark rust: Round1 magic ring6 (6 sts); Round2 inc six times (12 sts); Round3 [sc,inc] six times (18 sts); Round4 sc around (18 sts). Rounds5-8 cinnamon,9-12 dark rust,13-16 cinnamon,17-20 dark rust,21-24 cinnamon,25-28 dark rust: sc in every stitch throughout (18 sts). Change in the last yarn-over before each new color and secure ends inside.
2. Lightly stuff the tail as you go so it bends freely. After Round28 flatten the opening and sew nine matched stitch pairs closed. Pin this nine-stitch base to the lower back of the seated body around Rounds4-8. Sew across the entire base twice, then curve the tail around one side of the feet. Add a second line of small attachment stitches along approximately two inches where the tail touches the lower body, catching full fabric loops on both pieces.
3. Check the panda on a level surface and redistribute stuffing before making the final tail stitches if it rocks. The tail supports the pose; do not add weights or wire. Tug each ear, patch, arm, foot and tail gently from several directions. Remove any pins and loose threads. Clean according to the yarn and stuffing labels, dry completely, and recheck seams after washing. This is an original untested design, not a certified toy.

Assembly and Shaping

Keep the round marker at the back. On the widest 48-stitch head rounds, the front center is opposite the marker at about stitch 25. Pin two cream cheeks equally to either side, then sew their full perimeters. Add embroidered eyes and nose before closing the final head rounds. Attach ears symmetrically, legs at the lower front and arms at the upper sides. Sew the tail’s base and its contact line along the lower back so it supports the seated pose.

Lay every component on a flat surface before joining. Match the marked centers first, then divide each remaining edge into equal sections. Work through both layers with consistent tension and pause after each section to check that the fabric lies flat. This measured approach prevents twisting and keeps decorative details facing the intended direction.

Finishing

1. Weave each yarn tail through several same-color stitches, reverse direction twice and stretch the fabric gently before trimming.
2. Block to the stated shape according to the yarn label and let every component dry fully before final assembly.
3. Inspect the first and last row, joins, edges, and any sewn attachment from both sides; repair loose stitches before use.
4. Include the fiber content, finished dimensions and care instructions when gifting. Keep yarn projects away from open flames and direct heat.

For a polished result, weave each tail through several same-color stitches, reverse direction once, and trim only after the fabric has been gently stretched. Block to the listed dimensions without flattening textured stitches. Inspect joins, borders, straps, and decorative pieces before the project is used or gifted.

Helpful Tips

• Place removable markers at each shaping repeat and record the count before beginning the next row.
• Use a contrasting cloth behind dark yarn so it is easier to see both loops of every stitch.
• Lay the piece flat and compare opposite sides at each measurement checkpoint rather than pulling one side to match.
• If an edge ripples or cups unexpectedly, stop and check stitch count and washed gauge before adding a border.

Good lighting and a contrasting stitch marker make counting much easier. If a section looks uneven, compare the current count with the previous checkpoint before continuing. Fixing one missed stitch early is faster than compensating later, and it preserves the measurements used by the assembly instructions.

Frequently Asked Questions

Are safety eyes required?

No. All facial features are embroidered with short secured stitches. There are no plastic eyes, buttons, wire or pellet weights.

Why is the tail sewn along the body base?

A reinforced base seam and a second attachment line prevent the long tail from hanging from a single point and help the seated form remain stable.

Is this a certified children’s toy?

No certification or physical sample test is claimed. Match the intended recipient’s age, inspect every attachment and remove the item from use if a seam loosens or stuffing appears. Use as decoration when its suitability is uncertain.

Conclusion

Keep the measured dimensions and yarn details with your pattern notes. Check the construction and safety guidance before styling or gifting the finished crochet project.

BabyYarnie Printable Crochet Pattern Card

BabyYarnie — easy-to-follow crochet for everyday makers.

Project: Crochet Sitting Red Panda Amigurumi

Skill level: Intermediate   Hook: 3.5 mm, adjusted for dense fabric   Yarn: Worsted

Finished size: Planning height about 6.5 inches including ears; tail about 4.7 inches before shaping

Card Materials

• Approximately 150 yards rust worsted yarn, 70 yards dark brown, 40 yards cinnamon and 25 yards cream, all same weight
• Small amount of black embroidery thread, washable fiberfill, 3.5 mm hook, six markers, blunt yarn needle, scissors and tape measure; no pellets, wire or plastic eyes

Card Instructions

1. Shape the One-Piece Rust Body and Head: Grow the body to42, narrow to24, expand the head to48, then close through42,36,30,24,18,12 and6.
2. Make and Sew the Face and Ears: Two sixteen-stitch oval cheeks and a ten-stitch muzzle frame embroidery; paired flattened ears carry fully sewn cream triangles.
3. Make the Compact Dark Limbs: Compact feet grow to18 and narrow to12; arms stay12, and all four flattened openings close over six matched pairs.
4. Stripe the Tail and Secure the Seated Pose: An eighteen-stitch tail has alternating four-round rust/cinnamon bands, light stuffing, a nine-pair closed base and a reinforced lower-body contact seam.

Finish: Check every count, weave in all ends, block to measurement, and inspect each join.