Crochet Modular Daisy Hexagon Table Runner – Free Pattern

This crochet daisy table runner is a practical general-crochet project. Seven cream hexagons with flat mustard daisy centers joined in a staggered narrow runner, sage joining seam and small continuous sc border. Follow the original US instructions below and check the fabric against your own washed swatch before assembly.

Seven cream hexagons each frame a flat six-petal mustard daisy. Sage whipstitched seams join them in a single gently zigzagging chain, not a two-row mat. A small continuous sage sc border follows every exposed side and the shallow inward seam corners. The motif and perimeter counts below are written out so the layout does not depend on the generated illustration.

Pattern Details

• Hook Size: 3 mm starting point; adjust to flat motif
• Finished Size: Planning motif4inches point to point; seven-motif runner about22 by5.2inches before border
• Gauge: One completed washed six-round motif targets4inches point to point; use actual motif size for runner dimensions
• Estimated Time: 8-12 hours
• Construction: Seven six-sided daisy motifs; six alternating full-side joins; continuous sage perimeter
• Skill level: Intermediate

Why You’ll Love This Project

Each component has a defined job and a counted construction. The compact palette makes the texture readable, while assembly checkpoints let you correct measurements before sewing. Keep a record of your actual gauge and materials for a repeatable second project.

Materials

• Planning allowance:300yards cream,80yards mustard and90yards sage sport cotton plus swatching allowance
• 3mm hook,six markers per motif,yarn needle,scissors,tape,blocking mat and rustproof pins

Gauge, Measurements, and Planning

Make one full motif first, wash and dry it flat without forcing the corners. Measure between opposite points and between opposite flat sides. A regular hexagon four inches point to point has side length about two inches and flat-to-flat height about3.46inches. The seven-motif alternating chain spans about eleven side lengths horizontally and2.6side lengths vertically: approximately22by5.2inches before edging. If your motif is larger or smaller, scale these estimates using its measured side length. All seven must match before joining. Gauge and yarn quantities remain planning targets, not measurements from a physical sample.

Make and wash a gauge swatch before beginning. Measure only after the swatch is completely dry. If the stitch width differs, change hook size rather than pulling the working yarn tighter. Keep a written count at the end of every section so the finished edges remain balanced and the assembly points line up.

Abbreviations and Special Stitches

• ch: chain
• sc: single crochet
• hdc: half double crochet
• dc: double crochet
• sl st: slip stitch
• st(s): stitch(es)
• rnd: round
• BLO: back loop only
• inc: 2 stitches in one stitch
• sc2tog: single crochet two stitches together
• RS: right side
• WS: wrong side
• sp: space

Special stitch guidance: All motif rounds are joined and not turned. Ch1 or ch2 at a round start never counts. In the petal round, sc in one center stitch and(hdc,dc,hdc)in the next creates one flat petal. Ch2 corner spaces count as two positions in the audit but remain spaces during work. For a perimeter valley sc2tog, draw up one loop through each of the two touching corner spaces, then yarn over and pull through all three loops.

Important Notes

• Pattern development note: stitch arithmetic and written construction have been reviewed computationally; this design has not been physically sample-tested. Gauge, yardage and finished measurements are planning targets, not a tested guarantee. Swatch and check fit before making a gift.
• US terminology. Follow this project’s specific turning, chain and joining conventions; chain positions count only where explicitly stated.
• On flat rows, turn after each row and work the first stitch into the last stitch of the previous row. On joined rounds, join to the first counted stitch and do not turn unless specifically instructed.
• Change color on the final yarn-over of the stitch before the new color is needed. Leave a 6-inch tail and weave it back and forth through same-color stitches after construction.
• Use the written stitch counts for structure and your washed gauge for dimensions. Do not silently add shaping increases to correct a measurement; make a fresh swatch with a different hook first.
• Images are AI-generated design illustrations, not stitch charts or photographs of a physically tested sample. Follow the written counts and your measured gauge.

Complete Instructions for Crochet Modular Daisy Hexagon Table Runner

Make the Flat Mustard Daisy

1. Make seven identical motifs. With mustard form a magic ring. Round1:12sc in ring,tighten,join to first sc. (12 sts) Keep the center flat,not stuffed. Round2:ch1,[sc in next stitch,(hdc,dc,hdc)in next stitch] six times,join. (24 sts) There are six single-sc valleys and six three-stitch petals.
2. Fasten mustard after Round2. Attach cream to any valley sc. Round3:ch1,[sc in valley sc,ch4,skip all three stitches of the next petal] six times,join to first sc. This gives6sc and six ch4 spaces,30positions total. (30 sts) Each arch bridges one petal; do not crochet into a petal tip.
3. Round4:sl st into first ch4 space,ch2,[2dc,ch2,2dc] in that space. Work[2dc,ch2,2dc]in each remaining ch4 space; skip the old valley sc. Join to first dc. There are24dc and six ch2 corners,36positions total. (36 sts)
4. Put a marker in each of the six new corner spaces. The first and last two-dc groups meet along a side after joining; the corners are the spaces,not the six valley sc from Round3. Stop to check that exactly six corners surround six mustard petals.

Complete Seven Equal Cream Hexagons

1. Round5:ch2,dc in every old dc and work[2dc,ch2,2dc]in each marked corner space,join to first dc. Between adjacent new corner spaces there are eight dc. Total48dc+12corner chains=60positions. (60 sts) Replace every corner marker in its new space.
2. Round6:ch1,sc in every old dc and work[2sc,ch2,2sc]in each corner space,join to first sc. Between adjacent corner spaces there are12sc. Total72sc+12corner chains=84positions. (84 sts) Fasten cream and weave ends into their own color on the reverse.
3. The twelve-sc side runs from just after one corner space to just before the next. It includes two sc made in each of those neighboring old corner spaces plus the eight old side dc. Never count the new ch2 corner space as one of the twelve seam stitches.
4. Wash all seven motifs together and dry flat, lightly pinning six corners to equal outlines. Remove all pins after drying. If one motif cups or differs in size, recheck its round counts or remake it; do not stretch it hard to fit the others. Place a removable label A-G on the reverse of each.

Join the Staggered Single-Chain Layout

1. Lay all motifs right side up with a horizontal top side. Label the six sides clockwise:0top,1upper-right,2lower-right,3bottom,4lower-left,5upper-left. Keep that same orientation for every motif,even when picking one up to sew.
2. Arrange A at left. Place B down and right of A so sideA2 meets sideB5. Place C up and right of B so B1 meets C4. Continue D down-right,E up-right,F down-right,G up-right. The six exact joins are A2-B5,B1-C4,C2-D5,D1-E4,E2-F5,F1-G4.
3. For each join align the two full twelve-sc sides edge to edge. Because their boundary directions oppose, pair stitch1 on one side with stitch12 on the other,then2with11,continuing through12with1. With sage whipstitch through both top loops of each matching pair,one pass per pair. Keep the seam flat,not tight.
4. At each end of that seam make one loose anchoring pass through the two adjacent ch2 corner spaces. Do not fill those spaces or draw them shut: the border later uses both at the inward valley. Weave seam tails on the reverse through three groups of stitches with two changes of direction.
5. Complete only the six specified seams. There are42original sides,12of which are consumed by paired seams,leaving30exposed sides. At the outer perimeter you should see18outward corners and12inward seam-end valleys. If a third motif meets at one point or the layout forms a second row,undo that join and follow the mapping again.

Work the Continuous Sage Perimeter

1. Attach sage to the first sc after any outward corner. Ch1,sc in every stitch of each exposed twelve-sc side. Never work down a sewn interior side. At an outward corner’s single ch2 space work3sc. At an inward seam-end valley work one sc2tog across its two touching corner spaces,then continue up the next exposed side.
2. Follow the entire outline without fastening off at each motif. You will work30x12=360side sc,18×3=54outward-corner sc,and12valley sc2tog. Join to first sc. (426 sts) Count valley decreases as one completed stitch each,not two.
3. A valley is the endpoint of a sewn side where two motifs meet and the perimeter turns inward. Its two corner spaces belong to different motifs. An outward corner is a single unjoined motif corner. Do not mistake the start of an exposed side for an additional corner.
4. Fasten off and weave sage ends into the border reverse. Wash and dry the runner flat,allowing each inward corner to settle without pulling the seams. The seven flowers should lie level and the long silhouette should zigzag gently instead of bending into a circle.
5. Use as a decorative runner on a dry flat table. It is not a tested heat protector,potholder or candle mat. Keep hot cookware,flames and sharp objects away; do not pull it with objects resting on it. Inspect the six seams after laundering and repair a loose joining stitch before using it again.

Assembly and Shaping

Label motifs A-G. Orient every hexagon with a horizontal top side and label sides clockwise0top,1upper-right,2lower-right,3bottom,4lower-left,5upper-left. Join A2 to B5,B1 to C4,C2 to D5,D1 to E4,E2 to F5,F1 to G4. This makes alternating downward and upward steps from left to right, without joining additional touching-looking corners.

Lay every component on a flat surface before joining. Match the marked centers first, then divide each remaining edge into equal sections. Work through both layers with consistent tension and pause after each section to check that the fabric lies flat. This measured approach prevents twisting and keeps decorative details facing the intended direction.

Finishing

1. Fasten off with a 6-inch tail; weave through three separate groups of stitches, changing direction twice.
2. Damp-block gently according to the fiber label, check the intended shape, and dry fully before assembly or use.
3. Inspect both sides, all joins, and every decorative attachment; resecure a loose stitch before gifting.
4. Include the fiber content and washing instructions with the finished item. Keep the item away from candles and other heat sources.

For a polished result, weave each tail through several same-color stitches, reverse direction once, and trim only after the fabric has been gently stretched. Block to the listed dimensions without flattening textured stitches. Inspect joins, borders, straps, and decorative pieces before the project is used or gifted.

Helpful Tips

• Count in small marked sections instead of counting an entire dark-colored edge repeatedly.
• Use a contrasting removable marker at each important corner, edge or division.
• Keep a row tally and record your swatch measurements beside the size you selected.
• If shaping ripples or pulls, stop at that checkpoint and compare counts and gauge before progressing.

Good lighting and a contrasting stitch marker make counting much easier. If a section looks uneven, compare the current count with the previous checkpoint before continuing. Fixing one missed stitch early is faster than compensating later, and it preserves the measurements used by the assembly instructions.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I change the colors?

Yes. Keep the yarn weight and fiber behavior consistent and use enough contrast for the decorative detail. Make a washed swatch with every major yarn substitution.

Is this pattern physically tested?

No physical sample test is claimed. The stitch counts are computationally checked and the written construction is reviewed. Make a gauge swatch, use the measurement checkpoints, and test fit or assembly before gifting.

Can a beginner make this?

This is an intermediate project because shaping and assembly require careful counting. Practise the named special stitches in a small swatch before working the main piece.

Conclusion

Keep the completed measurements and your yarn details with your pattern notes. The finished piece should match the described construction before it is styled or gifted. If a checkpoint does not match, correct the underlying count or gauge instead of concealing the difference during finishing.

BabyYarnie Printable Crochet Pattern Card

BabyYarnie — easy-to-follow crochet for everyday makers.

Project: Crochet Modular Daisy Hexagon Table Runner

Skill level: Intermediate   Hook: 3 mm starting point; adjust to flat motif   Yarn: Sport cotton

Finished size: Planning motif4inches point to point; seven-motif runner about22 by5.2inches before border

Card Materials

• Planning allowance:300yards cream,80yards mustard and90yards sage sport cotton plus swatching allowance
• 3mm hook,six markers per motif,yarn needle,scissors,tape,blocking mat and rustproof pins

Card Instructions

1. Make the Flat Mustard Daisy: Mustard center12sc; six petals24st; cream arches30positions; first hex round24dc+six ch2 corners.
2. Complete Seven Equal Cream Hexagons: Round5:8dc per side;Round6:12sc per side,72sc plus six ch2 corners per motif.
3. Join the Staggered Single-Chain Layout: Six sage full-side seams,12paired stitches each; alternating lower-right/upper-right single-chain layout.
4. Work the Continuous Sage Perimeter: Continuous border360side stitches+54convex-corner stitches+12valley stitches=426sc positions.

Finish: Check every count, weave in all ends, block to measurement, and inspect each join.