Crochet Mummy Envelope Book Sleeve – Free Pattern

This crochet mummy book sleeve brings a practical handmade detail to Halloween. Dense charcoal rectangular book sleeve with overlapping narrow ivory bandage strips, a retained eye window, embroidered gold eyes and a triangular tuck-in flap; no button. The instructions below describe the construction in US crochet terms. Choose yarn for the fabric structure rather than color alone, and compare each checkpoint with your own swatch before continuing.

Two charcoal rectangles protect a small book. The back continues into a tapered flap that tucks inside the opening behind the front panel. Narrow ivory strips lie over the front like bandages, leaving a small dark window for embroidered gold eyes. The sleeve is unlined and does not make a book waterproof.

Pattern Details

• Hook Size: 3.5 mm starting point; adjust to washed gauge
• Finished Size: Example exterior: 7.2 inches wide x 9.7 inches tall, plus 3-inch flap; fit a book up to about 5.5 x 8.5 x 1 inches after checking ease
• Gauge: 20 sc and 24 rows = 4 inches, washed
• Estimated Time: 7-10 hours
• Construction: Two 36-sc rectangles, tapered back flap, six narrow bandage strips, three-edge seam
• Skill level: Intermediate

Why You’ll Love This Project

The decoration is part of a useful, deliberately shaped project rather than a generic motif added to an unrelated pattern. Separate construction stages make counting manageable, while the limited palette keeps the silhouette readable. You can pause between components and check the measurements before committing to final assembly.

Materials

• Planning allowance: 250 yards charcoal and 90 yards ivory DK cotton; 3 yards gold matching yarn
• 3.5 mm hook, markers, yarn needle, scissors, ruler and the actual book or a same-size cardboard insert

Gauge, Measurements, and Planning

Measure the closed book: W is cover width, H is height, T is spine thickness, all in inches. Target flat panel width W + T + 0.7 and height H + T/2 + 0.7. At the target gauge, multiply width by 5, round UP to the next even stitch count N; multiply height by 6 and round UP to a row count R. For W=5.5, H=8.5 and T=1, use N=36 and R=59, giving 7.2 x 9.83 inches before seaming. About 0.1 inch at each side is used by the seam. Test with the actual book before joining. The dimensions printed above are approximate sewn measurements. Larger books need more yarn and longer bandages. Never stretch a tight sleeve around a valuable book.

Make and wash a gauge swatch before beginning. Measure only after the swatch is completely dry. If the stitch width differs, change hook size rather than pulling the working yarn tighter. Keep a written count at the end of every section so the finished edges remain balanced and the assembly points line up.

Abbreviations and Special Stitches

• ch: chain
• sc: single crochet
• hdc: half double crochet
• dc: double crochet
• sl st: slip stitch
• st(s): stitch(es)
• rnd: round
• BLO: back loop only
• inc: 2 stitches in one stitch
• sc2tog: single crochet two stitches together
• RS: right side
• WS: wrong side
• sp: space

Special stitch guidance: Sc2tog: insert into first stitch and pull up a loop, insert into next stitch and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through all three loops. On the tapered flap place one decrease at each end, with plain sc between. At the final four-stitch row, two sc2tog use all four stitches. All turning ch 1 are uncounted.

Important Notes

• Pattern development note: stitch arithmetic and written construction have been reviewed computationally; this design has not been physically sample-tested. Gauge, yardage and finished measurements are planning targets, not a tested guarantee. Swatch and check fit before making a gift.
• Beginning ch 1 or ch 2 and joining slip stitches never count as stitches. Mark the first counted stitch of each round and move the marker after completing the round.
• On flat rows, turn after each row and work the first stitch into the last stitch of the previous row. On joined rounds, join to the first counted stitch and do not turn unless specifically instructed.
• Change color on the final yarn-over of the stitch before the new color is needed. Leave a 6-inch tail and weave it back and forth through same-color stitches after construction.
• Use the written stitch counts for structure and your washed gauge for dimensions. Do not silently add shaping increases to correct a measurement; make a fresh swatch with a different hook first.
• Images are AI-generated design illustrations, not stitch charts or photographs of a physically tested sample. Follow the written counts and your measured gauge.

Complete Instructions for Crochet Mummy Envelope Book Sleeve

Measure and Make Two Panels

1. Front: with charcoal ch 37 (or N+1). Row 1: sc in second chain and each remaining chain. Ch 1, turn. (36 sts in example)
2. Rows 2-59 (or through R): sc in every stitch, ch 1 and turn. Omit the last turn; fasten off. (36 sts) Mark bottom and top corners. Wash, dry flat and measure.
3. Back: make an identical 36-stitch panel through Row 59, but keep yarn attached. Ch 1, turn to begin the flap. Back and front must have the same width and row count.

Taper the Tuck-in Flap

1. Flap Row 1: sc2tog, sc in next 32, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn unless this is the last flap row. (34 sts)
2. Flap Row 2: sc2tog, sc in next 30, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn unless this is the last flap row. (32 sts)
3. Flap Row 3: sc2tog, sc in next 28, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn unless this is the last flap row. (30 sts)
4. Flap Row 4: sc2tog, sc in next 26, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn unless this is the last flap row. (28 sts)
5. Flap Row 5: sc2tog, sc in next 24, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn unless this is the last flap row. (26 sts)
6. Flap Row 6: sc2tog, sc in next 22, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn unless this is the last flap row. (24 sts)
7. Flap Row 7: sc2tog, sc in next 20, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn unless this is the last flap row. (22 sts)
8. Flap Row 8: sc2tog, sc in next 18, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn unless this is the last flap row. (20 sts)
9. Flap Row 9: sc2tog, sc in next 16, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn unless this is the last flap row. (18 sts)
10. Flap Row 10: sc2tog, sc in next 14, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn unless this is the last flap row. (16 sts)
11. Flap Row 11: sc2tog, sc in next 12, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn unless this is the last flap row. (14 sts)
12. Flap Row 12: sc2tog, sc in next 10, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn unless this is the last flap row. (12 sts)
13. Flap Row 13: sc2tog, sc in next 8, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn unless this is the last flap row. (10 sts)
14. Flap Row 14: sc2tog, sc in next 6, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn unless this is the last flap row. (8 sts)
15. Flap Row 15: sc2tog, sc in next 4, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn unless this is the last flap row. (6 sts)
16. Flap Row 16: sc2tog, sc in next 2, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn unless this is the last flap row. (4 sts)
17. Flap Row 17: sc2tog, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn unless this is the last flap row. (2 sts)
18. Fasten off after Flap Row 17 with two stitches remaining. For a custom even N, decrease two stitches per row until two remain: (N-2)/2 flap rows. The final two-stitch edge is a blunt tip. Lay the flap over the opening to check it will tuck in without bunching.

Make Bandages and the Eye Window

1. Make six ivory strips. For each strip, ch 4. Row 1: sc in second chain and next two chains. (3 sts) Rows 2-47: ch 1, turn and sc in all three stitches. Fasten off with a 24-inch sewing tail. Each strip is about 0.6 x 7.8 inches. For custom width, work until each strip reaches diagonally from side to side with a little slack.
2. Place front RS up, bottom nearest you. Count panel rows upward from the foundation and columns from its left. Pin strip centerlines from left row 7 to right row 13, left 18 to right 12, left 25 to right 31, left 36 to right 30, left 44 to right 44, and left 54 to right 54. Cross the first four loosely at the middle without stretching the panel. The top pair stays horizontal, leaving an eye window between them.
3. Keep front rows 47-51 at columns 14-23 exposed charcoal. Embroider two small vertical gold eyes centered on columns 16 and 21 across rows 48-50, using three short parallel straight stitches per eye. No knots or loose loops on the front. Adjust only bandage placement if it hides the eyes; do not alter the panel counts.
4. Sew both long edges of each bandage with small ivory stitches into the front panel only, every second bandage row. At crossings, catch the upper strip to the lower strip as well. Fold each surplus end to the wrong side, keeping the first and last panel columns available for joining. Stitch ends flat and secure all embroidery tails. For a different N/R, transfer the layout proportionally and keep a clear central eye window.

Join and Test the Sleeve

1. Place wrong sides together with both foundation edges at bottom, decorated face out. Use charcoal to whipstitch one pair of corresponding row ends at a time down one 59-row side, one pair of foundation positions across the 36-stitch bottom, and one pair of row ends up the other side. Work through both loops at the bottom and secure full edge loops along the sides. Do not join the top or flap.
2. Do not make extra corner stitches in the same location: the first bottom pair continues from the completed side seam. Secure tails on the inside, weave them flat in several directions, and check no bandage tail can snag a page.
3. Insert the book slowly with its spine toward either side. Close the cover, fold the triangular flap forward and tuck its tip between book and inside front. If the opening is tight, undo the three-edge seam and resize the panels; do not force the book. Remove the book before washing and dry the sleeve completely before reuse.

Assembly and Shaping

Decorate the front before joining so embroidery and strip stitches catch only that panel. Align front and back bottoms, with the flap extending above the front. Whipstitch three edges, leaving the entire top and flap free. Cover the seam inside with the seam tails woven flat; do not add a separate bulky binding. The flap tucks into the front opening and is not sewn down.

Lay every component on a flat surface before joining. Match the marked centers first, then divide each remaining edge into equal sections. Work through both layers with consistent tension and pause after each section to check that the fabric lies flat. This measured approach prevents twisting and keeps decorative details facing the intended direction.

Finishing

1. Fasten off with a 6-inch tail; weave through three separate groups of stitches, changing direction twice.
2. Damp-block gently according to the fiber label, check the intended shape, and dry fully before assembly or use.
3. Inspect both sides, all joins, and every decorative attachment; resecure a loose stitch before gifting.
4. Include the fiber content and washing instructions with the finished item. Keep the item away from candles and other heat sources.

For a polished result, weave each tail through several same-color stitches, reverse direction once, and trim only after the fabric has been gently stretched. Block to the listed dimensions without flattening textured stitches. Inspect joins, borders, straps, and decorative pieces before the project is used or gifted.

Helpful Tips

• Count in small marked sections instead of counting an entire dark-colored edge repeatedly.
• Use a pale working surface behind black yarn so both loops of the stitch remain visible.
• Keep a row tally and record your swatch measurements beside the size you selected.
• If shaping ripples or pulls, stop at that checkpoint and compare counts and gauge before progressing.

Good lighting and a contrasting stitch marker make counting much easier. If a section looks uneven, compare the current count with the previous checkpoint before continuing. Fixing one missed stitch early is faster than compensating later, and it preserves the measurements used by the assembly instructions.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I change the colors?

Yes. Keep the yarn weight and fiber behavior consistent and use enough contrast for the decorative detail. Make a washed swatch with every major yarn substitution.

Is this pattern physically tested?

No physical sample test is claimed. The stitch counts are computationally checked and the written construction is reviewed. Make a gauge swatch, use the measurement checkpoints, and test fit or assembly before gifting.

Can a beginner make this?

This is an intermediate project because shaping and assembly require careful counting. Practise the named special stitches in a small swatch before working the main piece.

Conclusion

Keep the completed measurements and your yarn details with your pattern notes. The finished piece should match the described construction before it is styled or gifted. If a checkpoint does not match, correct the underlying count or gauge instead of concealing the difference during finishing.

BabyYarnie Printable Crochet Pattern Card

BabyYarnie — easy-to-follow crochet for everyday makers.

Project: Crochet Mummy Envelope Book Sleeve

Skill level: Intermediate   Hook: 3.5 mm starting point; adjust to washed gauge   Yarn: DK

Finished size: Example exterior: 7.2 inches wide x 9.7 inches tall, plus 3-inch flap; fit a book up to about 5.5 x 8.5 x 1 inches after checking ease

Card Materials

• Planning allowance: 250 yards charcoal and 90 yards ivory DK cotton; 3 yards gold matching yarn
• 3.5 mm hook, markers, yarn needle, scissors, ruler and the actual book or a same-size cardboard insert

Card Instructions

1. Measure and Make Two Panels: Example: two 36-sc x 59-row panels; continue the back into the flap.
2. Taper the Tuck-in Flap: Seventeen flap rows decrease 36 to 2 stitches, two decreases each row.
3. Make Bandages and the Eye Window: Six 3-sc bandages; overlap diagonally below two horizontal strips; embroider eyes in the retained window.
4. Join and Test the Sleeve: Whipstitch sides and bottom; leave opening free; tuck flap inside front after inserting book.

Finish: Check every count, weave in all ends, block to measurement, and inspect each join.