Crochet Witch Hat with a Crooked Brim – Free Pattern

This crochet witch hat brings a practical handmade detail to Halloween. Adult charcoal cone worked crown-down, a deliberately asymmetric wired-free brim, plum band and stitched crescent; two adult head-size options. The instructions below describe the construction in US crochet terms. Choose yarn for the fabric structure rather than color alone, and compare each checkpoint with your own swatch before continuing.

The hat begins at a narrow six-stitch point. Six evenly spaced increases are made every third round to form a tall cone. The brim grows from the cone base, and four short rows make one side deeper. A separate plum band and a small embroidered crescent finish the hat without wire.

Pattern Details

• Hook Size: 4.5 mm, adjusted to gauge
• Finished Size: S: 21-inch opening; M: 22.5-inch opening. Cone approximately 8.4 (9) inches tall; brim approximately 1.2 inches plus a 0.8-inch wedge.
• Gauge: Target: 16 sc and 20 rounds = 4 inches, washed
• Estimated Time: 6-9 hours
• Construction: Crown-down cone, joined brim rounds, short-row wedge and sewn band
• Skill level: Intermediate

Why You’ll Love This Project

The decoration is part of a useful, deliberately shaped project rather than a generic motif added to an unrelated pattern. Separate construction stages make counting manageable, while the limited palette keeps the silhouette readable. You can pause between components and check the measurements before committing to final assembly.

Materials

• Estimated 350 (400) yards firm worsted yarn in charcoal
• Estimated 45 yards matching worsted yarn in plum and 3 yards pale gold for embroidery
• 4.5 mm hook, six markers, tapestry needle, scissors and tape measure

Gauge, Measurements, and Planning

For S, 84 stitches divided by 4 stitches per inch gives a 21-inch opening; for M, 90 stitches gives 22.5 inches. Suggested head circumferences are 21.5-22.5 inches for S and 23-24 inches for M, subject to the stretch of your swatch. Confirm the opening fits before beginning the brim. A dense but flexible fabric is important because the brim contains no wire.

Make and wash a gauge swatch before beginning. Measure only after the swatch is completely dry. If the stitch width differs, change hook size rather than pulling the working yarn tighter. Keep a written count at the end of every section so the finished edges remain balanced and the assembly points line up.

Abbreviations and Special Stitches

• ch: chain
• sc: single crochet
• hdc: half double crochet
• dc: double crochet
• sl st: slip stitch
• st(s): stitch(es)
• rnd: round
• BLO: back loop only
• inc: 2 stitches in one stitch
• sc2tog: single crochet two stitches together

Special stitch guidance: An increase is 2 sc into one stitch. For BLO, insert under only the back loop. A short row stops before the previous row ends; chain 1 and turn without wrapping. The final edging stabilizes the exposed steps.

Important Notes

• Pattern development note: stitch arithmetic and written construction have been reviewed computationally; this design has not been physically sample-tested. Gauge, yardage and finished measurements are planning targets, not a tested guarantee. Swatch and check fit before making a gift.
• Beginning ch 1 or ch 2 and joining slip stitches never count as stitches. Mark the first counted stitch of each round and move the marker after completing the round.
• On flat rows, turn after each row and work the first stitch into the last stitch of the previous row. On joined rounds, join to the first counted stitch and do not turn unless specifically instructed.
• Change color on the final yarn-over of the stitch before the new color is needed. Leave a 6-inch tail and weave it back and forth through same-color stitches after construction.
• Use the written stitch counts for structure and your washed gauge for dimensions. Do not silently add shaping increases to correct a measurement; make a fresh swatch with a different hook first.

Complete Instructions for Crochet Witch Hat with a Crooked Brim

Shape the Cone

1. Rnds 1-3: Make a magic ring; Rnd 1: 6 sc in ring, close ring and mark first sc. Rnds 2-3: sc in each stitch. Work continuously without joining or turning. (6 sts)
2. Rnds 4-6: on Rnd 4, repeat [sc in next 0 stitches, 2 sc in next stitch] six times (omit the plain sc when zero). On each of the next two rounds sc once in every stitch. (12 sts)
3. Rnds 7-9: on Rnd 7, repeat [sc in next 1 stitches, 2 sc in next stitch] six times (omit the plain sc when zero). On each of the next two rounds sc once in every stitch. (18 sts)
4. Rnds 10-12: on Rnd 10, repeat [sc in next 2 stitches, 2 sc in next stitch] six times (omit the plain sc when zero). On each of the next two rounds sc once in every stitch. (24 sts)
5. Rnds 13-15: on Rnd 13, repeat [sc in next 3 stitches, 2 sc in next stitch] six times (omit the plain sc when zero). On each of the next two rounds sc once in every stitch. (30 sts)
6. Rnds 16-18: on Rnd 16, repeat [sc in next 4 stitches, 2 sc in next stitch] six times (omit the plain sc when zero). On each of the next two rounds sc once in every stitch. (36 sts)
7. Rnds 19-21: on Rnd 19, repeat [sc in next 5 stitches, 2 sc in next stitch] six times (omit the plain sc when zero). On each of the next two rounds sc once in every stitch. (42 sts)
8. Rnds 22-24: on Rnd 22, repeat [sc in next 6 stitches, 2 sc in next stitch] six times (omit the plain sc when zero). On each of the next two rounds sc once in every stitch. (48 sts)
9. Rnds 25-27: on Rnd 25, repeat [sc in next 7 stitches, 2 sc in next stitch] six times (omit the plain sc when zero). On each of the next two rounds sc once in every stitch. (54 sts)
10. Rnds 28-30: on Rnd 28, repeat [sc in next 8 stitches, 2 sc in next stitch] six times (omit the plain sc when zero). On each of the next two rounds sc once in every stitch. (60 sts)
11. Rnds 31-33: on Rnd 31, repeat [sc in next 9 stitches, 2 sc in next stitch] six times (omit the plain sc when zero). On each of the next two rounds sc once in every stitch. (66 sts)
12. Rnds 34-36: on Rnd 34, repeat [sc in next 10 stitches, 2 sc in next stitch] six times (omit the plain sc when zero). On each of the next two rounds sc once in every stitch. (72 sts)
13. Rnds 37-39: on Rnd 37, repeat [sc in next 11 stitches, 2 sc in next stitch] six times (omit the plain sc when zero). On each of the next two rounds sc once in every stitch. (78 sts)
14. Rnds 40-42: on Rnd 40, repeat [sc in next 12 stitches, 2 sc in next stitch] six times (omit the plain sc when zero). On each of the next two rounds sc once in every stitch. (84 sts)
15. S stops after Rnd 42. M only: Rnd 43: [sc in next 13, 2 sc in next] six times; Rnds 44-45: sc in every stitch. (90 sts)
16. Try the opening on before starting the brim. For either size, finish the cone with a slip stitch to the next stitch. This joining slip stitch is not counted.

Grow the Brim and Side Wedge

1. Brim Rnd 1: ch 1; [sc in next 13 (14) stitches, 2 sc in next] six times; join first sc, do not turn. Work Rnd 1 in BLO; use both loops thereafter. (90 sts) for S; (96 sts) for M.
2. Brim Rnd 2: ch 1; [sc in next 14 (15) stitches, 2 sc in next] six times; join first sc, do not turn. Work Rnd 1 in BLO; use both loops thereafter. (96 sts) for S; (102 sts) for M.
3. Brim Rnd 3: ch 1; [sc in next 15 (16) stitches, 2 sc in next] six times; join first sc, do not turn. Work Rnd 1 in BLO; use both loops thereafter. (102 sts) for S; (108 sts) for M.
4. Brim Rnd 4: ch 1; [sc in next 16 (17) stitches, 2 sc in next] six times; join first sc, do not turn. Work Rnd 1 in BLO; use both loops thereafter. (108 sts) for S; (114 sts) for M.
5. Brim Rnd 5: ch 1; [sc in next 17 (18) stitches, 2 sc in next] six times; join first sc, do not turn. Work Rnd 1 in BLO; use both loops thereafter. (114 sts) for S; (120 sts) for M.
6. Brim Rnd 6: ch 1; [sc in next 18 (19) stitches, 2 sc in next] six times; join first sc, do not turn. Work Rnd 1 in BLO; use both loops thereafter. (120 sts) for S; (126 sts) for M.
7. Wedge Row 1: ch 1, sc in the first 40 (42) brim stitches; leave the other 80 (84) unworked, ch 1 and turn. Row 2: sc in first 36 (38), leaving final 4 unworked, ch 1 and turn. Row 3: sc in first 32 (34), leaving final 4 unworked, ch 1 and turn. Row 4: sc in first 28 (30); leave final 4 unworked and fasten off.
8. Edging: attach charcoal at the back of the brim. Sc once in each of the 80 (84) untouched brim stitches, once into each exposed wedge stitch top (40 or 42 total across the steps), and once into each of the eight short-row ends. Do not work again into brim stitches covered by the wedge. Join and fasten off. (128 sts) for S; (134 sts) for M.

Make the Plum Band

1. Ch 6; Row 1: sc in second chain and next four chains, ch 1 and turn. (5 sts)
2. Rows 2-105 (113): sc in each of five stitches, ch 1 and turn. Stop turning after the final row. Measure approximately 21 (22.6) inches; compare with the actual cone circumference before fastening off.
3. If the band length differs, add or remove whole rows to match the circumference without stretching. Join its short ends with five whipstitches, then sew both long edges to the cone base without compressing the hat opening.

Assembly and Shaping

Sew the plum band around the lowest straight cone section, keeping the join at the back. Set the longer brim wedge at one side. Using pale gold, embroider a crescent on the band with six adjacent short satin stitches following a shallow curved outline; bury both ends under the band. The hat is a costume accessory, not weather protection.

Lay every component on a flat surface before joining. Match the marked centers first, then divide each remaining edge into equal sections. Work through both layers with consistent tension and pause after each section to check that the fabric lies flat. This measured approach prevents twisting and keeps decorative details facing the intended direction.

Finishing

1. Fasten off with a 6-inch tail; weave through three separate groups of stitches, changing direction twice.
2. Damp-block gently according to the fiber label, check the intended shape, and dry fully before assembly or use.
3. Inspect both sides, all joins, and every decorative attachment; resecure a loose stitch before gifting.
4. Include the fiber content and washing instructions with the finished item. Keep the item away from candles and other heat sources.

For a polished result, weave each tail through several same-color stitches, reverse direction once, and trim only after the fabric has been gently stretched. Block to the listed dimensions without flattening textured stitches. Inspect joins, borders, straps, and decorative pieces before the project is used or gifted.

Helpful Tips

• Count in small marked sections instead of counting an entire dark-colored edge repeatedly.
• Use a pale working surface behind black yarn so both loops of the stitch remain visible.
• Keep a row tally and record your swatch measurements beside the size you selected.
• If shaping ripples or pulls, stop at that checkpoint and compare counts and gauge before progressing.

Good lighting and a contrasting stitch marker make counting much easier. If a section looks uneven, compare the current count with the previous checkpoint before continuing. Fixing one missed stitch early is faster than compensating later, and it preserves the measurements used by the assembly instructions.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I change the colors?

Yes. Keep the yarn weight and fiber behavior consistent and use enough contrast for the decorative detail. Make a washed swatch with every major yarn substitution.

Is this pattern physically tested?

No physical sample test is claimed. The stitch counts are computationally checked and the written construction is reviewed. Make a gauge swatch, use the measurement checkpoints, and test fit or assembly before gifting.

Can a beginner make this?

This is an intermediate project because shaping and assembly require careful counting. Practise the named special stitches in a small swatch before working the main piece.

Conclusion

Keep the completed measurements and your yarn details with your pattern notes. The finished piece should match the described construction before it is styled or gifted. If a checkpoint does not match, correct the underlying count or gauge instead of concealing the difference during finishing.

BabyYarnie Printable Crochet Pattern Card

BabyYarnie — easy-to-follow crochet for everyday makers.

Project: Crochet Witch Hat with a Crooked Brim

Skill level: Intermediate   Hook: 4.5 mm, adjusted to gauge   Yarn: Worsted

Finished size: S: 21-inch opening; M: 22.5-inch opening. Cone approximately 8.4 (9) inches tall; brim approximately 1.2 inches plus a 0.8-inch wedge.

Card Materials

• Estimated 350 (400) yards firm worsted yarn in charcoal
• Estimated 45 yards matching worsted yarn in plum and 3 yards pale gold for embroidery
• 4.5 mm hook, six markers, tapestry needle, scissors and tape measure

Card Instructions

1. Shape the Cone: Work six increases every third round to 84 (90) stitches; stop at Round 42 (45).
2. Grow the Brim and Side Wedge: Six increase rounds, then four progressively shorter rows; edge all exposed stitches and row ends.
3. Make the Plum Band: Five-stitch band, approximately 105 (113) rows; fit to cone and sew both long edges.

Finish: Check every count, weave in all ends, block to measurement, and inspect each join.