This crochet skull tote bag brings a practical handmade detail to Halloween. Flat-bottom adult/teen cotton tote with one original ivory pixel skull on an aubergine panel, plain back and short reinforced handles; optional lining. The instructions below describe the construction in US crochet terms. Choose yarn for the fabric structure rather than color alone, and compare each checkpoint with your own swatch before continuing.
Five flat single-crochet panels create a small box-bottom tote. An original 16-column skull is centered on the front; the back and gussets remain solid. Two short straps attach securely below the reinforced top edge. Each colorwork row is provided as a stitch sequence, so no external chart is needed.
Pattern Details
- Hook Size: 4 mm, adjusted to gauge
- Finished Size: Approximately 9 inches wide, 10.5 inches high and 2 inches deep, excluding handles
- Gauge: Target: 16 sc and 18 rows = 4 inches, washed
- Estimated Time: 8-12 hours
- Construction: Five flat panels, bottom and side seams, joined upper edging and two handles
- Skill level: Intermediate
Why You’ll Love This Project
The decoration is part of a useful, deliberately shaped project rather than a generic motif added to an unrelated pattern. Separate construction stages make counting manageable, while the limited palette keeps the silhouette readable. You can pause between components and check the measurements before committing to final assembly.
Materials
- Estimated 400 yards worsted cotton in aubergine
- Estimated 60 yards matching worsted cotton in ivory
- 4 mm hook, markers, yarn needle, scissors and tape measure; optional cotton lining and sewing needle/thread

Gauge, Measurements, and Planning
The front and back each contain 36 stitches and 44 rows: at the target gauge these measure 9 by approximately 9.8 inches before edging. Side panels are 8 stitches wide. Match row gauge on all upright panels so their 44-row edges join without puckering. Carrying color too tightly can shrink the front; swatch a small two-color section first.
Make and wash a gauge swatch before beginning. Measure only after the swatch is completely dry. If the stitch width differs, change hook size rather than pulling the working yarn tighter. Keep a written count at the end of every section so the finished edges remain balanced and the assembly points line up.
Abbreviations and Special Stitches
- ch: chain
- sc: single crochet
- hdc: half double crochet
- dc: double crochet
- sl st: slip stitch
- st(s): stitch(es)
- rnd: round
- BLO: back loop only
- inc: 2 stitches in one stitch
- sc2tog: single crochet two stitches together
Special stitch guidance: A means aubergine and B means ivory. Work every listed color count in sc. Keep ivory on a separate small bobbin for each disconnected patch if carrying it would create a long float. Trap any carried strand under stitches every three stitches, and keep all carries on the wrong side. Every row turns; odd front rows are right-side rows.
Important Notes
- Pattern development note: stitch arithmetic and written construction have been reviewed computationally; this design has not been physically sample-tested. Gauge, yardage and finished measurements are planning targets, not a tested guarantee. Swatch and check fit before making a gift.
- Beginning ch 1 or ch 2 and joining slip stitches never count as stitches. Mark the first counted stitch of each round and move the marker after completing the round.
- On flat rows, turn after each row and work the first stitch into the last stitch of the previous row. On joined rounds, join to the first counted stitch and do not turn unless specifically instructed.
- Change color on the final yarn-over of the stitch before the new color is needed. Leave a 6-inch tail and weave it back and forth through same-color stitches after construction.
- Use the written stitch counts for structure and your washed gauge for dimensions. Do not silently add shaping increases to correct a measurement; make a fresh swatch with a different hook first.
Complete Instructions for Crochet Skull Tapestry Trick-or-Treat Tote
Crochet the Skull Front
- Front Row 1: with A, ch 37; sc in second chain and each remaining chain. Ch 1 and turn. (36 sts)
- Front Rows 2-12: sc in each stitch with A, ch 1 and turn. (36 sts)
- Front Row 13: 14A, 2B, 1A, 2B, 1A, 2B, 14A; ch 1 and turn. (36 sts)
- Front Row 14: 14A, 2B, 1A, 2B, 1A, 2B, 14A; ch 1 and turn. (36 sts)
- Front Row 15: 14A, 2B, 1A, 2B, 1A, 2B, 14A; ch 1 and turn. (36 sts)
- Front Row 16: 14A, 2B, 1A, 2B, 1A, 2B, 14A; ch 1 and turn. (36 sts)
- Front Row 17: 13A, 10B, 13A; ch 1 and turn. (36 sts)
- Front Row 18: 13A, 10B, 13A; ch 1 and turn. (36 sts)
- Front Row 19: 13A, 4B, 2A, 4B, 13A; ch 1 and turn. (36 sts)
- Front Row 20: 12A, 5B, 2A, 5B, 12A; ch 1 and turn. (36 sts)
- Front Row 21: 12A, 5B, 2A, 5B, 12A; ch 1 and turn. (36 sts)
- Front Row 22: 12A, 2B, 3A, 2B, 3A, 2B, 12A; ch 1 and turn. (36 sts)
- Front Row 23: 12A, 2B, 3A, 2B, 3A, 2B, 12A; ch 1 and turn. (36 sts)
- Front Row 24: 12A, 2B, 3A, 2B, 3A, 2B, 12A; ch 1 and turn. (36 sts)
- Front Row 25: 12A, 12B, 12A; ch 1 and turn. (36 sts)
- Front Row 26: 12A, 12B, 12A; ch 1 and turn. (36 sts)
- Front Row 27: 13A, 10B, 13A; ch 1 and turn. (36 sts)
- Front Row 28: 13A, 10B, 13A; ch 1 and turn. (36 sts)
- Front Row 29: 14A, 8B, 14A; ch 1 and turn. (36 sts)
- Front Row 30: 15A, 6B, 15A; ch 1 and turn. (36 sts)
- Front Row 31: 16A, 4B, 16A; ch 1 and turn. (36 sts)
- Front Rows 32-44: sc in each stitch with A; ch 1 and turn except after Row 44. (36 sts)
- The skull occupies columns 11-26 and Rows 13-31, measured from the bottom when the right side faces you. The lower four motif rows form teeth; the upper rows round the head. Keep the row sequence bottom-to-top, not top-to-bottom.

Make the Back, Base and Side Panels
- Back: with A, ch 37 and work 36 sc from the second chain. Work 44 total rows of 36 sc, ch 1 and turn after each row except the last. (36 sts)
- Base: with A, ch 37, sc in second chain and remaining chains. Work eight rows of 36 sc, ch 1 and turn except after the last row. (36 sts)
- Two side panels: for each, ch 9 and sc in second chain and remaining chains. Work 44 rows of 8 sc, ch 1 and turn except after the final row. (8 sts)
- Block each panel to gauge without stretching the colorwork. Join as described in Assembly, matching all counted stitch and row edges before sewing.

Edge and Reinforce the Opening
- Join A at a back corner. Ch 1; sc once into every top-edge stitch: 36 front, 8 side, 36 back and 8 other side. Join first sc and do not turn. (88 sts)
- Top Rnds 2-3: ch 1, sc in each of 88 stitches, join first sc without turning. Fasten off. (88 sts)
Make and Attach Both Handles
- For each of two handles, ch 8; sc in second chain and next six chains. Work 58 rows of 7 sc, ch 1 and turn except after the last row. (7 sts)
- Each handle measures about 1.75 by 12.9 inches before attachment. On the front, number the 36 stitches from left to right as viewed. Align one end over columns 7-13, the other over 24-30. Overlap the bottom six rows of each end onto the inside of the bag, below the edging.
- Sew a rectangle around each overlapping handle end, then sew both diagonals inside that rectangle. Repeat for the back handle. Inspect from the front to keep attachments level. Lightly load the bag and check stretch and seam security before use; no load capacity is certified.
- Optional lining: cut a cotton rectangle matching each finished panel plus half an inch seam allowance on all sides. Sew the five lining panels in the same arrangement using half-inch seams. Turn the top allowance inward and hand-sew below the bag edging, enclosing loose colorwork carries. Keep the bag handles outside the lining.
Assembly and Shaping
With wrong sides facing inward, join front and back lower edges to the two 36-stitch long edges of the base. Join each eight-stitch side-panel bottom to one eight-row short edge of the base, using one joining stitch per row end. Join each 44-row vertical side to the matching 44-row front/back edge with one mattress stitch per row end. Do not overlap or double-count corners. This creates the flat bottom before the top edging and straps are added.
Lay every component on a flat surface before joining. Match the marked centers first, then divide each remaining edge into equal sections. Work through both layers with consistent tension and pause after each section to check that the fabric lies flat. This measured approach prevents twisting and keeps decorative details facing the intended direction.

Finishing
- Fasten off with a 6-inch tail; weave through three separate groups of stitches, changing direction twice.
- Damp-block gently according to the fiber label, check the intended shape, and dry fully before assembly or use.
- Inspect both sides, all joins, and every decorative attachment; resecure a loose stitch before gifting.
- Include the fiber content and washing instructions with the finished item. Keep the item away from candles and other heat sources.
For a polished result, weave each tail through several same-color stitches, reverse direction once, and trim only after the fabric has been gently stretched. Block to the listed dimensions without flattening textured stitches. Inspect joins, borders, straps, and decorative pieces before the project is used or gifted.
Helpful Tips
- Count in small marked sections instead of counting an entire dark-colored edge repeatedly.
- Use a pale working surface behind black yarn so both loops of the stitch remain visible.
- Keep a row tally and record your swatch measurements beside the size you selected.
- If shaping ripples or pulls, stop at that checkpoint and compare counts and gauge before progressing.
Good lighting and a contrasting stitch marker make counting much easier. If a section looks uneven, compare the current count with the previous checkpoint before continuing. Fixing one missed stitch early is faster than compensating later, and it preserves the measurements used by the assembly instructions.

Frequently Asked Questions
Can I change the colors?
Yes. Keep the yarn weight and fiber behavior consistent and use enough contrast for the decorative detail. Make a washed swatch with every major yarn substitution.
Is this pattern physically tested?
No physical sample test is claimed. The stitch counts are computationally checked and the written construction is reviewed. Make a gauge swatch, use the measurement checkpoints, and test fit or assembly before gifting.
Can a beginner make this?
This is an intermediate project because shaping and assembly require careful counting. Practise the named special stitches in a small swatch before working the main piece.
Conclusion
Keep the completed measurements and your yarn details with your pattern notes. The finished piece should match the described construction before it is styled or gifted. If a checkpoint does not match, correct the underlying count or gauge instead of concealing the difference during finishing.
BabyYarnie Printable Crochet Pattern Card

BabyYarnie — easy-to-follow crochet for everyday makers.
Project: Crochet Skull Tapestry Trick-or-Treat Tote
Skill level: Intermediate Hook: 4 mm, adjusted to gauge Yarn: Worsted
Finished size: Approximately 9 inches wide, 10.5 inches high and 2 inches deep, excluding handles
Card Materials
- Estimated 400 yards worsted cotton in aubergine
- Estimated 60 yards matching worsted cotton in ivory
- 4 mm hook, markers, yarn needle, scissors and tape measure; optional cotton lining and sewing needle/thread
Card Instructions
- Crochet the Skull Front: 36 sc by 44 rows; center the written 16-column skull over Rows 13-31.
- Make the Back, Base and Side Panels: Back 36 x 44, base 36 x 8, two sides 8 x 44; join into box-bottom bag.
- Edge and Reinforce the Opening: Three joined rounds of 88 sc around the opening.
- Make and Attach Both Handles: Two seven-stitch handles, 58 rows each; box-and-cross stitch four attachment areas, optionally line.
Finish: Check every count, weave in all ends, block to measurement, and inspect each join.
