Crochet Ghost Drawstring Treat Pouch – Free Pattern

This crochet ghost treat bag brings a practical handmade detail to Halloween. Small cream hollow cylindrical cotton pouch with a circular sc base, embroidered black eyes and mouth, and two opposing lavender drawstrings through a counted eyelet round. No stuffing, arms or ghost skirt. The instructions below describe the construction in US crochet terms. Choose yarn for the fabric structure rather than color alone, and compare each checkpoint with your own swatch before continuing.

A flat circular base grows into a straight, hollow cream pouch. Embroider a tiny ghost face before adding the eyelet round. Two lavender crochet-chain cords travel around the rim in opposite directions, so pulling their pairs closes the opening. The finished pouch is intended for adult gifting with individually wrapped contents.

Pattern Details

• Hook Size: 4 mm starting point; adjust to dense fabric gauge
• Finished Size: Target about 3.4 inches base diameter and 4.7 inches wall height; approximately 10.7 inches around
• Gauge: 18 sc and 22 rounds = 4 inches in plain sc
• Estimated Time: 3-5 hours
• Construction: Continuous sc circle and walls, one joined eyelet round, two rim rounds, two drawstrings
• Skill level: Easy

Why You’ll Love This Project

The recognizable ghost is made with yarn embroidery instead of plastic eyes. A plain cylindrical shape keeps the project useful beyond a single decoration, and the separately threaded cords can be removed for washing. There is no stuffing or scalloped skirt to confuse the construction.

Materials

• Planning allowance: 110 yards cream worsted cotton, 25 yards lavender matching cotton for two cords, 3 yards black cotton for embroidery
• 4 mm hook, first-stitch marker, tapestry needle, scissors and tape measure; individually wrapped treats only

Gauge, Measurements, and Planning

Use a small washed sc swatch to check 4.5 stitches and 5.5 rounds per inch. A 48-stitch wall should measure approximately 10.7 inches around, giving a base diameter near 3.4 inches. The circle must lie flat without forced stretching. Round 9 begins the wall and Round 34 ends the rim, for 26 wall rounds or roughly 4.7 inches at target gauge. Your yarn and the eyelets can change that height. Keep the written 48-position circumference; adjust the hook before making the pouch if the base cups or ripples. The yarn amounts are planning allowances, not sample measurements.

Make and wash a gauge swatch before beginning. Measure only after the swatch is completely dry. If the stitch width differs, change hook size rather than pulling the working yarn tighter. Keep a written count at the end of every section so the finished edges remain balanced and the assembly points line up.

Abbreviations and Special Stitches

• ch: chain
• sc: single crochet
• hdc: half double crochet
• dc: double crochet
• sl st: slip stitch
• st(s): stitch(es)
• rnd: round
• BLO: back loop only
• inc: 2 stitches in one stitch
• sc2tog: single crochet two stitches together
• RS: right side
• WS: wrong side
• sp: space

Special stitch guidance: Use ordinary sc through both loops except the BLO turning round. The base and plain walls use continuous rounds: do not join, chain or turn. Move the marker into the first sc of each round. Eyelet round [sc in next 2, ch 2, skip next 2] uses four old stitches and produces two sc plus two chain positions. Its starting ch 1 and final slip stitch do not count.

Important Notes

• Pattern development note: stitch arithmetic and written construction have been reviewed computationally; this design has not been physically sample-tested. Gauge, yardage and finished measurements are planning targets, not a tested guarantee. Swatch and check fit before making a gift.
• Beginning ch 1 or ch 2 and joining slip stitches never count as stitches. Mark the first counted stitch of each round and move the marker after completing the round.
• On flat rows, turn after each row and work the first stitch into the last stitch of the previous row. On joined rounds, join to the first counted stitch and do not turn unless specifically instructed.
• Change color on the final yarn-over of the stitch before the new color is needed. Leave a 6-inch tail and weave it back and forth through same-color stitches after construction.
• Use the written stitch counts for structure and your washed gauge for dimensions. Do not silently add shaping increases to correct a measurement; make a fresh swatch with a different hook first.
• Images are AI-generated design illustrations, not stitch charts or photographs of a physically tested sample. Follow the written counts and your measured gauge.

Complete Instructions for Crochet Ghost Drawstring Treat Pouch

Grow the Circular Base

1. With cream make a magic ring. Round 1: 6 sc in ring, tighten and mark the first stitch. Do not join or turn. (6 sts)
2. Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch. (12 sts) Move the first-stitch marker.
3. Round 3: [sc in next 1, 2 sc in next] six times. (18 sts) Move the first-stitch marker.
4. Round 4: [sc in next 2, 2 sc in next] six times. (24 sts) Move the first-stitch marker.
5. Round 5: [sc in next 3, 2 sc in next] six times. (30 sts) Move the first-stitch marker.
6. Round 6: [sc in next 4, 2 sc in next] six times. (36 sts) Move the first-stitch marker.
7. Round 7: [sc in next 5, 2 sc in next] six times. (42 sts) Move the first-stitch marker.
8. Round 8: [sc in next 6, 2 sc in next] six times. (48 sts) Move the first-stitch marker.
9. Check the eight-round circle lies flat. Secure the ring tail with several direction changes on the underside before beginning the wall; a loose ring cannot be repaired by pulling the wall tighter.

Build the Plain Wall and Embroider the Face

1. Round 9: sc BLO in all 48 stitches. (48 sts) This leaves a visible ridge around the bottom; do not increase.
2. Rounds 10-31: sc through both loops of every stitch in continuous rounds. (48 sts) Count after each round. The wall rises from the base and stays hollow; do not stuff it.
3. Pause after Round 31 with a locking marker in the active loop. Choose the front opposite the first-stitch line. Mark two eye centers six stitch columns apart at Round 22. Each eye is a small filled oval across two stitch columns and three rounds, Rounds 21-23. Make short vertical satin stitches with black yarn, anchoring each end inside.
4. Center a small oval mouth between the eyes, lower on the bag across Rounds 17-19 and two stitch columns. Use short stitches rather than one long float. Weave all black tails inside the wall; do not knot bulky ends against the front. Remove the embroidery markers.
5. Resume cream. Slip stitch in the next stitch to level the continuous-round step, then move the marker to that position. This slip stitch is not an extra stitch; Round 32 begins by working into that same top position.

Add the Twelve Eyelets and Rim

1. Round 32: ch 1; [sc in next 2 stitches, ch 2, skip next 2] twelve times. Join to first sc without turning. (48 sts) counted as 24 sc and 24 chain positions, with twelve ch-2 eyelets.
2. Round 33: ch 1; [sc in next 2 sc, work 2 sc into next ch-2 space] twelve times. Join to first sc. (48 sts) Do not work again into the skipped wall stitches.
3. Round 34: ch 1, sc in each of 48 sc, join and fasten off. (48 sts) Keep the rim relaxed enough for the opening to spread. Secure the cream tail on the inside without closing an eyelet.

Crochet Two Cords and Thread Them Oppositely

1. Make two identical cords in lavender: ch 90 with relaxed tension, then fasten off leaving a 6-inch tail at each end. There is no return row. Each chain cord should measure approximately 20-22 inches before tying; if yours is shorter, remake it with additional chains to reach 22 inches.
2. Number the twelve eyelets around the opening. Cord A starts outside eyelet 1: enter 1, come out 2, enter 3, come out 4, and continue alternating through eyelet 12. Both cord ends now lie outside between eyelets 12 and 1. Tie these two ends together with a secure overhand knot, then weave and trim their tails.
3. Cord B starts at the opposite side: enter eyelet 7, come out 8, enter 9, come out 10, enter 11, come out 12, enter 1, come out 2, enter 3, come out 4, enter 5 and come out 6. Tie its own two ends together outside between 6 and 7. Keep the cords separate; add no beads.
4. Pull the two knotted cord pairs in opposite directions to gather the top; spread the rim to reopen. Test several times with light wrapped contents. This is an adult gift pouch, not a child play bag: drawstrings are an entanglement hazard. Keep cords away from babies and young children. Crochet is not food-safe packaging; use only wrapped treats or a removable food-safe liner, and remove contents before washing.

Assembly and Shaping

Embroider on the front wall while the opening is wide. Thread each separate lavender cord through all twelve eyelets, with its ends returning to its starting side; start the second cord at the opposite side. Tie only the two ends belonging to the same cord together, never the two different cords to each other.

Follow the specific assembly for this project above. Do not sew closed an opening that is meant to remain open, and do not add attachments absent from the written construction.

Finishing

1. Fasten off with a 6-inch tail; weave through three separate groups of stitches, changing direction twice.
2. Damp-block gently according to the fiber label, check the intended shape, and dry fully before assembly or use.
3. Inspect both sides, all joins, and every decorative attachment; resecure a loose stitch before gifting.
4. Include the fiber content and washing instructions with the finished item. Keep the item away from candles and other heat sources.

For a polished result, weave each tail through several same-color stitches, reverse direction once, and trim only after the fabric has been gently stretched. Block to the listed dimensions without flattening textured stitches. Inspect joins, borders, straps, and decorative pieces before the project is used or gifted.

Helpful Tips

• Count in small marked sections instead of counting an entire dark-colored edge repeatedly.
• Use a pale working surface behind black yarn so both loops of the stitch remain visible.
• Keep a row tally and record your swatch measurements beside the size you selected.
• If shaping ripples or pulls, stop at that checkpoint and compare counts and gauge before progressing.

Good lighting and a contrasting stitch marker make counting much easier. If a section looks uneven, compare the current count with the previous checkpoint before continuing. Fixing one missed stitch early is faster than compensating later, and it preserves the measurements used by the assembly instructions.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I change the colors?

Yes. Keep the yarn weight and fiber behavior consistent and use enough contrast for the decorative detail. Make a washed swatch with every major yarn substitution.

Is this pattern physically tested?

No physical sample test is claimed. The stitch counts are computationally checked and the written construction is reviewed. Make a gauge swatch, use the measurement checkpoints, and test fit or assembly before gifting.

Is this a toddler trick-or-treat bag?

No. The two long drawstrings make it unsuitable for babies or young children. Use it as an adult-handled gift pouch, with wrapped contents and no loose beads.

Conclusion

Keep the completed measurements and your yarn details with your pattern notes. The finished piece should match the described construction before it is styled or gifted. If a checkpoint does not match, correct the underlying count or gauge instead of concealing the difference during finishing.

BabyYarnie Printable Crochet Pattern Card

BabyYarnie — easy-to-follow crochet for everyday makers.

Project: Crochet Ghost Drawstring Treat Pouch

Skill level: Easy   Hook: 4 mm starting point; adjust to dense fabric gauge   Yarn: Worsted

Finished size: Target about 3.4 inches base diameter and 4.7 inches wall height; approximately 10.7 inches around

Card Materials

• Planning allowance: 110 yards cream worsted cotton, 25 yards lavender matching cotton for two cords, 3 yards black cotton for embroidery
• 4 mm hook, first-stitch marker, tapestry needle, scissors and tape measure; individually wrapped treats only

Card Instructions

1. Grow the Circular Base: Eight continuous rounds: 6, 12, 18, 24, 30, 36, 42, 48 sc.
2. Build the Plain Wall and Embroider the Face: BLO Round 9, plain sc Rounds 10-31; embroider two eyes and a mouth before closing the rim.
3. Add the Twelve Eyelets and Rim: Twelve repeats create 12 eyelets; two further 48-sc rounds finish the rim.
4. Crochet Two Cords and Thread Them Oppositely: Make two ch-90 cords, fit to 20-22 inches, weave through all 12 eyelets from opposite sides, and knot each cord to itself.

Finish: Check every count, weave in all ends, block to measurement, and inspect each join.