Crochet Herringbone Shawl-Collar Baby Cardigan – Free Pattern

This original crochet herringbone baby cardigan pattern explains how to make crochet herringbone shawl-collar baby cardigan from the first counted stitch through final assembly. The design is a practical free tutorial in US terms, with measurements and stitch checkpoints that you can verify as you work.

This design uses herringbone half-double-crochet seamed panels, shaped set-in sleeves and an integrated stepped short-row shawl collar. Work the named components in their stated direction, verify each count, and baste every shaped join before finishing.

Pattern Details

• Hook Size: 4 mm, adjusted to washed gauge
• Finished Size: 12–18-month planning size: 21-inch fabric chest excluding opening, 12-inch body, 9-inch upper sleeve and approximately 8.7-inch sleeve including cap; check fit
• Gauge: 16 HBhdc and 12 rows = 4 inches; 16 sc and 16 rows = 4 inches for collar
• Estimated Time: 16–22 hours plus swatching
• Construction: Back44, fronts20 each; back upper40; shoulders12 each; sleeves28→36 with six-row caps; continuous112-sc band and four paired short-row widths64/56/48/40
• Skill level: Intermediate

Why You’ll Love This Project

The shape comes from counted stitches rather than an unexplained diagram. You can inspect each stage against the measurements, and the finished object has a clear purpose and a distinct silhouette in photographs.

Materials

• Approximately 650 yards pearl-gray washable DK, including collar and swatches; estimate, not sample-measured
• 4 mm hook, locking markers, contrasting basting yarn, blunt needle, tape measure and scissors

Gauge, Measurements, and Planning

Wash a 24-stitch herringbone swatch of at least18 rows and a separate sc swatch. The middle16 stitches span4 inches;12 HBhdc rows or16 sc rows span4 inches. Back44 plus two20-stitch fronts gives84 positions, or21 inches of fabric. The armhole ledges are half an inch each;14 upper rows supply about4.67 inches per side. The six-row sleeve cap is planned to follow an approximately10.3-inch armhole perimeter. Actual sloped cap length must match the actual armhole within a quarter inch after basting. Do not stretch or gather it to hide a mismatch; stop and re-swatch. This is a single measured planning size, not a tested multi-size pattern.

Make and wash a gauge swatch before beginning. Measure only after the swatch is completely dry. If the stitch width differs, change hook size rather than pulling the working yarn tighter. Keep a written count at the end of every section so the finished edges remain balanced and the assembly points line up.

Abbreviations and Special Stitches

• ch: chain
• sc: single crochet
• sl st: slip stitch
• st(s): stitch(es)
• rnd: round
• inc: 2 sc in one stitch
• sc2tog: single crochet two stitches together
• hdc: half double crochet
• dc: double crochet
• hdc2tog: half double crochet two together
• dc2tog: double crochet two together
• RS/WS: right side/wrong side

Special stitch guidance: HBhdc: yarn over, insert in the next stitch, draw up a loop and pull that newly drawn loop through the middle loop already on the hook; yarn over and draw through the remaining two loops. One base stitch becomes one HBhdc. For a shaping hdc2tog, yarn over and draw up a loop in each of two adjacent base stitches, then yarn over through all five loops; this ordinary hdc decrease is confined to edges. hdc3tog draws a loop with a yarn over in each of three base stitches, then closes all seven loops. Turning ch2 does not count. For every first stitch, use the actual first base top, not the lift. All flat rows turn; no joined body rounds are used.

Important Notes

• AI-generated pictures illustrate the intended design; they are not photographs of a physically tested sample. Follow written counts rather than counting stitches in an image.
• The stitch arithmetic has been checked, but gauge, yardage and fit are planning targets until a physical sample is made. Wash a swatch and check measurements before gifting or wearing.
• A beginning ch 1 and a joining sl st never count as a stitch in this pattern. Mark the first counted stitch of each row or round.
• If a row count is wrong, return to that row. Adding an unplanned stitch later changes the shaping and the assembly alignment.
• Age labels are planning guidance only. Compare washed chest, arm openings, sleeve length and neckline to a comfortable garment for the intended child. Use as supervised awake outerwear, never for sleep.
• Arithmetic reference, not a size chart: (40 sts); (44 sts). Counts refer to the component named in the corresponding row.

Complete Instructions for Crochet Herringbone Shawl-Collar Baby Cardigan

Work the Back and Mirrored Herringbone Fronts

Make one back and two fronts from the lower hem upward. Mark outer armhole edges separately from inner opening edges. Keep RS markers facing the same garment side.

1. Back Row1: Ch46; HBhdc in the third chain and each remaining chain, turn. (44 sts) Rows2–22: ch2, HBhdc across44, turn. The lower side-seam height is22 rows.
2. Back Row23: Fasten off and rejoin at stitch3, leaving two original edge stitches unworked on each side. HBhdc across the central40, turn. (40 sts) Rows24–36: ch2 and HBhdc across40; turn. On the final top, mark12 shoulder stitches at each end and leave16 center neck stitches unseamed.
3. Front A Row1: Ch22; HBhdc in the third chain and each remaining chain, turn. (20 sts) Rows2–22:20 HBhdc, turning each row. Row23 leaves two stitches at the OUTER side only and works the remaining18; rejoin at that boundary rather than crocheting over the held ledge. (18 sts)
4. Front Rows24,26,28,30,32 and34: make one hdc2tog at the INNER neck end, work HBhdc everywhere else, turn. Counts after those rows are17,16,15,14,13 and12. On Rows25,27,29,31,33,35 and36 work even at the preceding count. Final shoulder is12. The outer edge is straight throughout the upper14 rows.
5. Make Front B identically but reverse which physical edge receives the held two-stitch armhole ledge and the six neck decreases. With both RS faces up, the neck slopes must face the center opening and the straight upper side edges face outward. Do not make two left fronts.
6. Match each12-stitch front shoulder to the outer12 back stitches and baste one-to-one. Leave the central16 back-neck tops free. Baste the lower22 side row ends on each front to the matching22 on the back; leave the upper14 row ends and both two-stitch ledges open for each armhole.

Shape and Set In the Two Sleeves

Make both sleeves flat in HBhdc. Use ordinary hdc increases/decreases only where the shaping row says so; the rest remains directional herringbone. Cap length is a measured gate, not proof of a sample-tested fit.

1. Sleeve Row1: ch30, HBhdc from third chain across, turn. (28 sts) Rows2–4:28. Rows5,9,13 and17: work two HBhdc in the first and last stitch and one in each intervening stitch. End counts30,32,34 and36. All intervening rows and Rows18–20 work even at their current count, turning every row.
2. Cap Row1: fasten off and rejoin after two held edge stitches; work the middle32, leaving two at the opposite end. (32 sts) Cap Rows2–6: hdc3tog across the first three, HBhdc in the middle, hdc3tog across the last three, turn. The middle counts are26,22,18,14 and10; end counts28,24,20,16 and12.
3. Baste the20 sleeve body row ends into a tube, leaving all cap edges free. Center the twelve-stitch cap top on the shoulder seam, six stitches to front and six to back. Each held two-stitch sleeve ledge meets its body’s two-stitch armhole ledge.
4. Pin each of the two sloped six-row cap edges to its half-armhole in four equal measured sections. Compare the relaxed seam paths before sewing. Sew every cap row-end bar, distributing stitches along the pinned armhole bars; pass twice through a long bar only to close a seam gap, never to gather fabric. Finish permanent seams only when the cap lies smooth and arm clearance is comfortable.
5. Edge each wrist with28 sc in its foundation positions. At sc gauge that is7 inches around; check both the hand opening and wrist ease. No rolled cuff or fastener is added to this design.

Integrate the Short-Row Shawl Collar

Begin at the lower left front with RS facing. The collar and placket are one continuous sc band, with extra paired rows centered around the upper opening. Number the band positions1–112; these are NEW edging stitches, not the84 body-hem stitches.

1. Band Row1: pick up48 sc along the36 row-end bars of the first front, using four sc per three bars (one in each bar, then one extra in the third). Work16 sc in the exposed back-neck tops, then48 along the opposite front in the mirrored ratio. Turn. (112 sts) The sloping portion must stay relaxed: if48 pickups pull a front inward, stop and correct washed edge gauge before continuing.
2. Band Rows2–3: ch1, sc in every band stitch, turn. (112 sts) Fasten off, retaining the112 numbered outer-edge positions. Rejoin at position25 and sc across positions25–88 inclusive, turn. Short Row4 has64 stitches; Short Row5 returns across those64, turn.
3. Short Row6: slip stitch in the first four stitches without counting them, ch1, sc in the next56 and leave the final four unworked, turn. Short Row7:56 sc, turn. Short Row8: slip across four, sc48, leave four, turn. Short Row9:48 sc, turn. Short Row10: slip across four, sc40, leave four, turn. Short Row11:40 sc; fasten off. The last forty lie over original band positions37–76:12 upper-front positions,16 back-neck positions,12 opposite upper-front positions.
4. Smooth the stepped outside edge with one sc in each exposed horizontal stitch and one sc per short-row end bar. There are112 exposed horizontal positions in total (36 each side plus40 at the center) and16 vertical row-end bars from the eight short rows, for128 outside-edge sc. Do not stitch over hidden layers or catch a step twice. The collar’s center has11 sc rows including its base, about2.75 inches; fold back gently, without sewing a stiff crease.
5. Edge the84 lower foundation positions with84 sc, excluding the band width at each end; finish the two short lower band ends with one sc per exposed sc-row bar. Wash and dry flat. Check the folded collar does not crowd the neck, both sides remain equal and neither sleeve seam puckers. No buttons, ties or detached collar halves are attached.

Assembly and Shaping

Seam12 shoulder stitches per side; back neck remains16. The complete body hem44+20+20=84 gives21 inches of fabric. Upper front18 loses six stitches to reach12; back upper40=12+16+12. Each sleeve cap starts32 and loses four per shaping row to12. A112-stitch continuous band carries centered paired short rows and is not a separate Peter Pan collar. All sloped seams and collar pickup lengths require a washed physical check.

Lay every component on a flat surface before joining. Match the marked centers first, then divide each remaining edge into equal sections. Work through both layers with consistent tension and pause after each section to check that the fabric lies flat. This measured approach prevents twisting and keeps decorative details facing the intended direction.

Finishing

1. Weave each tail along three different paths on the wrong side; reverse direction before trimming.
2. Wash or damp-block according to the yarn label and allow the work to dry at its measured shape.
3. Inspect every seam, edge and attachment from both faces before first use, then inspect again after laundering.

For a polished result, weave each tail through several same-color stitches, reverse direction once, and trim only after the fabric has been gently stretched. Block to the listed dimensions without flattening textured stitches. Inspect joins, borders, straps, and decorative pieces before the project is used or gifted.

Helpful Tips

• Use contrasting locking markers at shaping points and record the count after every change row.
• Change hook size when the washed swatch differs from the stated gauge; do not compensate with uneven hand tension.
• Photograph the flat components before joining so it is easy to identify an inverted or twisted piece.

Good lighting and a contrasting stitch marker make counting much easier. If a section looks uneven, compare the current count with the previous checkpoint before continuing. Fixing one missed stitch early is faster than compensating later, and it preserves the measurements used by the assembly instructions.

Frequently Asked Questions

Has this design been physically sample-tested?

No. The arithmetic and assembly plan are checked, but gauge, yarn amount, fit and seam geometry remain planning targets. The AI illustrations are not a stitch-count chart.

How do I select the size?

Use the listed fabric dimensions and a washed swatch, not the age alone. If the swatch or measured garment does not fit these targets, stop before assembly and revise the size with checked counts.

Conclusion

Counted shaping and measured joins make this an independent cardigan construction rather than a renamed raglan recipe. Wash, check fit and inspect every seam before supervised wear. No physically crocheted sample is claimed.

BabyYarnie Printable Crochet Pattern Card

BabyYarnie — easy-to-follow crochet for everyday makers.

Project: Crochet Herringbone Shawl-Collar Baby Cardigan

Skill level: Intermediate   Hook: 4 mm, adjusted to washed gauge   Yarn: Smooth washable DK cotton-wool blend

Finished size: 12–18-month planning size: 21-inch fabric chest excluding opening, 12-inch body, 9-inch upper sleeve and approximately 8.7-inch sleeve including cap; check fit

Card Materials

• Approximately 650 yards pearl-gray washable DK, including collar and swatches; estimate, not sample-measured
• 4 mm hook, locking markers, contrasting basting yarn, blunt needle, tape measure and scissors

Card Instructions

1. Work the Back and Mirrored Herringbone Fronts: Back44 lower22 rows, upper40 for14 rows, shoulders12/neck16/shoulder12. Each front20→18 at armhole, then six neck decreases18→12; mirror the second front.
2. Shape and Set In the Two Sleeves: Sleeve28→30→32→34→36 through20 rows; cap32→28→24→20→16→12. Baste and measure cap-to-armhole before sewing; cuff28 sc.
3. Integrate the Short-Row Shawl Collar: Continuous band48+16+48=112; three base rows, then paired short rows64/56/48/40; outside step edge112 horizontal+16 vertical=128 sc. Hem84 sc.

Finish: Check every count, weave in all ends, block to measurement, and inspect each join.